V&T Daily
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vintage napa
By Kristie Kellahan.
Published in the January-March 2012 issue.
California’s wine country attracts visitors with its world-class cellar doors and then delights them with superb accommodation and restaurants, a thriving arts scene and ample opportunities to unwind.
The Native American Wappo Indians nailed it when they began referring to this lush, abundant valley by the name Napa. The word means “land of plenty” and it was as apt then as it is today. Even centuries ago, the Wappo could see that this was a fertile pocket of countryside, a place where crops would grow easily and the rivers would be full of fish.
Today, the Napa Valley is recognised around the world as a leisure playground: a sunny slice of California where conditions are perfect for winemaking. More than 400 wine brands produce award-winning drops within the 50-kilometre-long valley, making it the most densely concentrated wine country in the world.
What better place to enjoy your locally produced wine than in one of the acclaimed restaurants? There are more than 85 across the valley – and with a total of 14 Michelin stars awarded among them last year, your dining choices may require some deliberation.
Thermal hot springs, decadent spas, culinary classes and hot-air ballooning round out the delicious ingredients of your Napa getaway.
Where to sleep
Your choice of where to stay in the Napa Valley will come down to location (in which of its five regions do you want to be based?) along with your budget and your preference for big and bold or cosily intimate lodgings, or somewhere in between. There are more than 150 accommodation options across the valley, from B&Bs with homely rooms to sprawling modern resorts, built to cater for the conferences and incentives groups that like to combine wine with whiteboards.
A touch of France in the heart of the valley? Mais oui! The family-run Les Mars Hotel has been garnering applause and awards since opening its doors six years ago. Designed to resemble a luxurious, yet comfortable, European country home, Les Mars is an intimate proposition – just 16 rooms spread over two floors. The offerings may appear effortless but don’t be fooled: that artless blend of old and new – the latest home-entertainment appliances rigged up within a Louis XV armoire, for example – takes a practised eye to accomplish.
There must be something about the Napa Valley that inspires French charm because the theme continues at Chateau de Vie, a delightful B&B set amid the vines. With fresh seasonal breakfasts and an afternoon wine-and-cheese service, the tastebuds are taken care of, while the L’Occitane bath amenities make soaking a pleasure. If the weather permits, don’t miss a turn in the garden jacuzzi.
Fans of the Westin brand will be happy to accumulate loyalty points at riverfront The Westin Verasa Napa. It features all the top-line amenities you’d expect from a chain of this standing – the Heavenly Bed, Heavenly Bath, X-Box 360 with iPod dock and DVD player – plus a few surprises such as panoramic river views and a wine bar that has everyone talking, the Bank Café and Bar. Pull up a patio perch at sunset and enjoy wine tastings and canapés.
Where to eat
Celebrity chefs and Michelin stars are hallmarks of the Napa Valley culinary scene. At the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone – a castle-like estate perched on the western hills – aspiring home chefs can do more than eat the local produce. Cooking courses, “food enthusiast” programs and wine appreciation classes are all on the menu; pick up gourmet produce, cookbooks and kitchen utensils on your way out.
For a meal to remember, book a table at Auberge du Soleil – the Napa Valley’s first fine-dining restaurant and still one of the region’s best. Local produce is celebrated in the white-clothed main dining room as well as the more casual bistro next door. The chef’s tasting menu might feature squab with arugula, Fra’Mani pancetta and almonds, or “day boat” scallops with asparagus, black quinoa and Japanese mizuna. Once you’ve finished your meal, head to the bistro and while away the evening with a bottle of wine from its excellent list. If you can’t tear yourself away, the property also offers smart rooms, suites and – if you have the means – a private maison.
Passionate foodies travel halfway around the world to dine at The French Laundry, the brainchild of Thomas Keller. The chef and his team have created a little piece of paradise in a turn-of-the-century stone building where immaculately groomed waiters serve up nine-course degustations that change daily. Book in summer and you might sample dishes combining Hawaiian hearts of palm and Padron peppers or butter-poached Maine lobster, squash puree and cranberry beans; come back in autumn or winter and you’ll be treated to an entirely different meal.
Where to spa
Sybarites in the know book their treatments at Spa Solage well in advance. Consistently lauded as one of the best in the U.S., the signature day spa of Solage Calistoga resort is exceptionally popular with tourists and locals alike. With 1,858 square metres of treatment rooms and mud and mineral-spring baths, there’s enough room to accommodate the crowd and still make you feel as though you have the place to yourself. The spa takes eco-chic to the next level with organic towels, solar panels, recycled woods and a general feeling of carbon-neutral Zen.
If you’ve been indulging in the Napa wine and cuisine a little too much and are feeling the effects of over-indulgence, proceed directly to Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort in Calistoga. Dr. Wilkinson’s legendary health retreat has been resurrecting tired livers and sloughing away dull complexions since 1952 with tried-and-tested methods of natural healing. Book in for “The Works,” which includes a traditional mud bath, mineral bath, steam session, blanket wrap and massage.
What to do
You can’t visit the Napa Valley without sampling the wines. The best way to get a taste for the region is to hire a car (and a designated driver) and enjoy a serendipitous drive around the valley, stopping for a tasting here and a picnic sandwich there. Some highlights include Mumm Napa for sparkling wine, Sequoia Grove for Bordeaux-style cabernet sauvignon and the Robert Mondavi Winery for its chardonnay and fumé blanc.
Golf enthusiasts are also well catered for in the Napa, with two championship courses at Silverado Resort and Spa. Both underwent major renovations to bunker and turf last year, as well as the addition of new tees. The resort also offers 13 tennis courts and stylish accommodations.
Art aficionados can pick up original pieces at the Napa Valley Art Association’s gallery Artists of the Valley on First Street. It’s stocked with paintings, photographs, works in glass and more, all fashioned by creative types living and working in the Napa.
Be prepared for an interesting three hours if you decide to take a walk with George Webber – historian, actor and self-proclaimed wine expert. He leads the Napa Walking Tour as it meanders along the river, visits Victorian mansions and gives a historical perspective of the region. It all culminates in an entertaining wine lecture and tasting at the Ceja Vineyards Wine Tasting Room. •
Photographs courtesy of California Tourism and respective restaurants and hotels.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
United Airlines offers a daily service from Sydney and Melbourne to San Francisco. 131-777; unitedairlines.com.au
Delta Air Lines flies from Sydney to Los Angeles with onward connections to San Francisco. delta.com
Hire a car with DriveAway Holidays. 1300-723-972;
driveaway.com.au
when to go
The Napa Valley is a year-round destination with four distinct Northern Hemisphere seasons. Experience the bloom of spring, the peak of summer, the autumn harvest or the cosy ambience of winter.
where to stay
• Chateau de Vie. 1-707/942-6446 or 1-877/558-2513; cdvnapavalley.com
• Les Mars Hotel. 1-707/433-4211; hotellesmars.com
• Meadowood Napa Valley. 1-707/963-3646;
meadowood.com
• Westin Verasa Napa. 1-888/627-7169;
westin.com/verasanapa
where to eat
• Auberge du Soleil. 1-707/963-1211; aubergedusoleil.com
• The French Laundry. 1-707/944-2380; frenchlaundry.com
where to spa
• Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort. 1-707/942-4102; drwilkinson.com
• Spa Solage. 1-707/226-0800; solagecalistoga.com
what to do
• Winery tours and cellar door hours. napavalley.com
• Napa Valley Art Association. 1-707/255-9616; nvart.org
• Silverado Resort and Spa. 1-707/257-0200;
silveradoresort.com
• Napa Walking Tour. napawalkingtour.com
further information
Contact California Tourism for tips on travelling to the U.S. state. 61-2/9361-0660; visitcalifornia.com.au
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