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the wonder of India
Published in the July-September 2009 issue.
Thomas E. King introduces us to the incredible diversity of India through its history, culture, food and shopping.
From mountain high to mangrove low, ‘incredible’ is an apt word to describe India, a land so vast that it’s often referred to as a subcontinent. Spread across this expanse – an area about two-fifths the size of Australia – are modern cities with monumental buildings, endless villages, a treasure-trove of ancient ruins, some dating back 5,000 years, and countless temples, shrines, mosques and churches.
You can have an unforgettable introduction to India’s spiritual heritage while listening to tinkling bells in venerated Hindu temples and watching rituals that have changed little in scores of centuries. Nor has time altered the scene in mountain-surrounded monasteries, where reverent monks chant Buddhist prayers before flickering flames. India is home to these two great religions, but others thrive side by side.
The unmistakeable call to prayer spreads out loud and clear from minarets across the land. More than 100 million Muslims respond, in the sanctity of their mosques. Church bells chime from the towering belfries of massive cathedrals and the faithful flock to prayers before ornamented altars. Devotees swarm into the Golden Temple to hear turban-adorned priests recite passages from the Sikh holy book.
India is one country where many religions and cultures have intertwined to create a destination unlike any other on the planet. As a result, the second most populated country on Earth offers holiday options that are, truly, incredible.
Begin where archaeologists say India’s recorded history commenced: in the far western reaches of the country. Excavations at Lothal, 80 kilometres south-west of Ahmedabad, the state capital of Gujarat, have revealed much about the advanced Harappa civilisation, which started somewhere around 3300 BC.
Continue your off-the-beaten-track journey to the Buddhist centre at Sanchi in central Madhya Pradesh. The impressive complex of mounds and monasteries built around the first century BC is one of the most peaceful places you’re likely to encounter in India.
One of the greatest leaders of ancient India, Emperor Ashoka of the Maurya Dynasty, embraced Buddhism. His standard, bearing depictions of four lions and the inscription ‘satyameva jayate’ – or ‘truth alone triumphs’ – was adopted as the national emblem when the Republic of India was established, in 1950. It is just one example of how the past is ever present in India.
If you are a first-time traveller to India, the Taj Mahal is bound to be somewhere near the top of your sightseeing itinerary. A succession of Mogul emperors ruled over India, including Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal as a tribute to his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. No matter how many times I see this wonder of wonders, I still gaze in awe at its grandeur.
There are many other places on the subcontinent that have tangible links with the past. The arrival of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama in 1498 marked the entry of European powers into India. Many vestiges from the 450 years of Portuguese rule in Goa remain, even today, from grand Catholic churches and a delectable ‘fusion’ cuisine to a unique language and a distinctly Euro-tinged culture.
You may like to pay a visit to the former territory during Easter or Christmas. These are particularly exciting times to be in Goa: the matchless mix of revelry and religion seems to appeal to visitors as much as it does to the locals. If you happen to miss these busy festive occasions, don’t despair, because a showcard full of cultural activities can be found in virtually every state and territory of India, throughout much of the year. Theatre performances, music recitals, fairs and dance exhibitions such as those held in Khajuraho and Chennai can form the core of a memorable holiday.
Special-interest tours that delve into India’s culture, history and religion; hone in on the subcontinent’s wildlife, from tigers to terrapins; incorporate sumptuous spas; or allow ardent players to tee off on a multitude of golf courses are increasingly popular with Australian visitors. A shopping tour can also be the sole reason for your visit to India – in some instances, you can see exclusive handicrafts being made before you buy.
Each state in the republic, from Karnataka and Madhya Pradesh to Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu, has something special to show. For instance, all across northern India and particularly in major tourist cities such as New Delhi and nearby Agra – the city of the Taj Mahal – there are centres where age-old arts such as carving and inlaying marble, crafting alabaster and stone, gold and silver embroidery and jewellery-making are still practiced.
The multi-storey Central Cottage Industries Emporium (CCIE) off Connaught Place in central New Delhi sells a wide array of handicrafts. Visitors to the Indian capital can also browse and buy at fixed-price State Government emporia, which specialise in handcrafted products from their respective states. A row of state emporia can be found near the CCIE on Baba Kharak Singh Marg, an avenue of temptation also located near Connaught Place.
The state of West Bengal in eastern India is the home of many distinct crafts, including hand-spun cotton and silk textiles. The capital of Kolkata is a prime destination for buying hand-woven saris, dress materials, bedsheets, bedspreads, items made from leather, cane and wicker, and pottery and toys made from terracotta. Burrabazaar and the old, British-era Hogg Market (aka New Market) are popular with tourists willing to bargain for such items; the CCIE on Jawaharlal Nehru Road (formerly known as Chowringhee Road) is the centre of choice for those who aren’t.
In the Tamil Nadu state capital of Chennai in southern India, there are many places to buy a variety of exquisite arts and crafts including nirmal articles, bidri work and items featuring intricate gold and silver filigree. Nirmal is a type of lacquerwork used for everyday items such as boxes, trays, toys and furniture, while bidri is an attractive artform in which silver or gold threads are inlaid in gun-metal. The Victoria Technical Institute on Anna Salai (formerly known as Mount Road), a personal favourite, stocks these items.
If your holiday itinerary takes you all over India, you can buy as you go. If you would rather wait and do your shopping at your last port of call, however, Mumbai is an ideal place for buying what you may have missed elsewhere. The city is also noted for its production of a wide variety of gold and silver jewellery, precious stones (sold at competitive prices), silks and cotton textiles, colourful hand-loomed products and embroidered textiles.
The Government-run emporia on Dr Dadabhai Naoroji (commonly referred to as DN) Road leads to the ornate, World-Heritage-listed Victoria Terminus, now known as Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the city’s main railway station. Footpath vendors line the way, hawking cheap, readymade items and shoes, handicrafts and books. A word of warning: inspect the quality of goods thoroughly before purchasing here, because there are no refunds – and you may never see the vendor again.
Like the abundance of crafts it produces, India’s cuisine is vastly varied. If you were under the impression that all Indian food is curry and that all curry is hot, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. Curry is India’s best-known food, and it can be made with meat, fish, eggs or vegetables. The types of curry you’ll encounter here are so diverse that the only common elements seem to be that the mixture is always fried in ghee (pure, clarified butter) or a vegetable oil; that it is spiced according to the cook’s or diner’s wishes; and that it is always served with rice.
Chicken and lamb curries are generally good throughout India. Mumbai and Kolkata are known for their beef curries. If you want your curry in a liquid form, try Mulligatawny soup. It’s made from the same ingredients as curry but it’s boiled instead of fried.
One of the most delectable meat dishes is biryani, a taste treat prepared with chicken or lamb and whole spices, smothered with rice and garnished with raisins, sliced almonds and orange segments. Biryani is one favourite of northern India; others come from the tandoor oven. Chicken, fish or other meats are spiced, baked on the inside walls of clay tandoor ovens and served with bowls of cooling yoghurt and thin tandoori breads.
It’s likely that during your first Indian meal you will be confronted with something that looks like thick pea or bean soup. This is dhal, a side-dish made from lentils or split peas. Served at the same time will be parboiled or raw vegetables, pickles, chutneys and curd. Indians love curd, and even they appreciate the soothing effect of this yoghurt-like preparation after a spicy curry meal.
A pleasant conclusion to any meal is a rice pudding type of dessert decorated with raisins, almonds and pistachios called firnee. On festive occasions, this cooling dessert is decorated with edible gold and silver leaf.
Of course you can forgo all this and dine on standard international Western fare or Chinese, French or Japanese dishes in major hotels and larger restaurants. But why limit your tastebuds to everyday fare when you can try a different dish every day of your Indian holiday?
Photography by Tom King and India Tourism.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
getting around
- Abercrombie & Kent, phone 1300 851 800 or visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au
- Adventure Associates, phone 1800 222 141 or visit www.adventureassociates.com
- Asian Bound Holidays, phone 1300 761 580 or visit www.asianbound.com.au
- Asiaquest Tours, phone 1800 144 738 or visit www.asiaquesttours.com.au
- Ausindia Holidays, phone 1300 146 342 or visit www.ausindiaholidays.com.au
- Banyan Tours & Travels, phone 02 9999 5270 or go to www.banyantours.com
- Creative Holidays, phone 1300 747 400 or visit www.creativeholidays.com.au
- Epicurious Travel, phone 03 9486 5409 or visit www.epicurioustravel.com.au
- Essence of Asia, phone 1300 365 355 or visit www.essenceofasia.com
- InterAsia Tours, phone 1300 133 001 or visit www.interasiatours.com.au
- Intrepid Travel, phone 1300 364 512 or visit www.intrepidtravel.com
- Natural Focus Safaris, phone 1300 363 302 or 03 9249 3777 or visit www.naturalfocussafaris.com
- On the Go Tours, phone 1300 855 684 or visit www.onthegotours.com
- Qantas Holidays, phone 13 1415 or visit www.qantas.com.au/holidays
- Ram World Travel, phone 02 9262 1661 or visit www.ramworldtravels.com
- Travel Indochina, phone 1300 138 755 or visit www.travelindochina.com.au
- Travman Tours, phone 1800 338 007 or visit www.travman.com.au
- Icon Holidays, phone 1300 853 953 or visit www.iconholidays.com
- Tempo Holidays, phone 1300 558 987, www.tempoholidays.com
- Wendy Wu Tours, phone 02 9224 8888 or visit www.wendywutours.com.au
- Wildlife Safari, phone 1800 998 558 or visit www.wildlifesafari.com.au
where to stay
- See our story on hotels and resorts, ‘Pleasure Palaces’, for details.
further information
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