The Best of Hospitality
From mountain lodges to village stays, there are dozens of ways to experience PNG, says Ute Junker.
Luxury comes in many forms. Here in the thin air of Papua New Guinea’s southern highlands, you won’t find black-clad butlers and silver-service afternoon teas. Rather, the luxury on offer here is the 180-degree view from your room’s picture windows – a magnificent panorama of dense green forest, cascading down the hillside until it disappears in the mist. It’s the feel of a luxuriant continental quilt enveloping you in the evening chill. Most of all, it’s in the knowledge that just being here is an extraordinary privilege.
Perched 2100 metres above the Tari Basin, Ambua Lodge’s location may not be extraordinarily high but it is exceedingly remote. Even today, the only way to get here is by plane from Mount Hagen or Port Moresby. Seventy years ago, this wild but rugged terrain was unexplored territory – for white men, at least. It was gold prospectors who, in the 1930s, first came across the local Huli tribesmen, who wear elaborate headpieces of human hair, feathers and flowers. The prospectors captured that first encounter on a cine-camera; today, guests can watch the historic footage in the lodge’s video room. To be able to relax in luxurious surrounds, less than a lifetime after that historic encounter – that’s a priceless experience.
Ambua Lodge is, arguably, PNG’s signature property: a series of sophisticated huts crafted from bush materials and furnished with plenty of creature comforts. It’s one of several distinctive properties owned by Trans Niugini Tours scattered around the country that allow visitors to experience the many fascinating sights, sounds and cultural groups that make up PNG, from the mighty Sepik River, to the remote Tari Vally and magnificent Rondon Ridge.
In the case of Ambua Lodge, guests (including repeat visitor David Attenborough) are drawn by the area’s orchids and birdlife: up to 13 species of birds of paradise have been spotted in the vicinity. A series of nature trails takes you through dense rainforest, past secluded waterfalls and through landscapes thick with rhododendrons, orchids and spectacular butterflies.
Talking of birds, the Bird of Paradise Hotel in Goroka in Eastern Highlands Province is another stylish accommodation that overlooks the surrounding mountains. It has guestrooms, suites and fully serviced apartments set in tropical gardens, with pool and kids’ play area. You can spot birds of paradise in Mt Gahavisuka National Park nearby, visit pottery makers and coffee factories, or organise other tours through the hotel’s helpful reception.
For those drawn to marine attractions, the north-coast town of Madang makes an excellent base. Madang Resort Hotel is the area’s most modern accommodation, an expansive property with large gardens and a swimming pool haunted by vibrantly-hued Queen Victoria pigeons, closer in size to peacocks. Like many PNG hotels, the resort offers various accommodations, from simple fan-cooled backpacker huts to air-conditioned bungalows equipped with kitchenettes and cable TV. Most visitors come here to dive or snorkel among brilliantly-coloured coral and countless wrecks. An alternative for keen divers is Jais Aben Resort, around 20 kilometres from Madang. Located on a picturesque peninsula, with beaches and lawns, it’s perfectly set up for families, with generously proportioned bungalows.
Madang is not the only spot in PNG to offer superb diving. Serious divers stay at Walindi Plantation Resort on Kimbe Bay in New Britain, drawn by its onsite dive centre and proximity to the best dive sites. The resort’s laidback tropical vibe also appeals to honeymooners and families. The traditional-style bungalows nestled in rainforest are delightful, and the food is fabulous.
In New Ireland, Lissenung Island Resort is a small private island with sandy beaches, flowers everywhere, and the requisite beach sunsets. There are just four cheerful bungalows, and the resort is run by exceedingly charming staff. The diving here is truly extraordinary, and the resort offers daily boat trips out to the reefs, drop offs and wrecks.
Another destination that’s hugely popular with divers is Tufi, on Cape Nelson, an hour’s flight from Port Moresby. It is one of the country’s most enchanting locations, with densely-wooded volcanic fiords stretching down to azure waters. The place to stay is Tufi Dive Resort, a charmingly low-key destination perfectly positioned to maximise stunning views over the area’s bays.
Resort management works closely with the surrounding communities, and can organise village stays for those who are interested. While village accommodation is simple – thatched huts with mosquito netting – the thrill is in the opportunity you get to share in the villagers’ daily life. Village stays are also on offer elsewhere in the country. Sepik Adventure Tours offers rough-and-ready trips up the Sepik in dug-out canoes, with participants sleeping in bush camps and village guesthouses en route. This is no-frills travelling: food is generally limited to fish and fruit, and there are no private showers, bathrooms or individual sleeping quarters. The pay-off is having the chance to travel through a wild landscape rich in crocodiles and birds; to meet isolated forest dwellers, and to experience traditional customs.
Despite the city’s less-than-savoury reputation, Port Moresby can actually make for a pleasant stopover, with enough sights to occupy you for a day or two. The must-visit is Port Moresby’s stunning Parliament Haus, with its magnificent interiors. Other highlights include the spectacular collection of orchids at the National Botanic Garden, and various galleries that showcase carvings.
Two exceptional hotels offer very different ways to experience the city of Port Moresby. Ela Beach Hotel has beachfront rooms and a lively atmosphere, thanks to the onsite Beachside Brasserie, one of the best restaurants in town, and a bar that doubles as one of Port Moresby’s most popular live-music venues. The hotel is handily located opposite a busy handicrafts market, a short walk away from the picturesque stilt village of Koki, which has its own lively street bazaar.
If you prefer accommodation that’s more removed from the action, Loloata Island Resort, floating 20 kilometres off Port Moresby in Bootless Bay, is a good option; it’s a popular weekend retreat for Moresby residents. The vibe here is very laidback, with good snorkelling, lots of wallabies and generously sized accommodation. You can also windsurf and kayak, or just have a stroll around the entire island’s circumference, which will take about an hour.
If you’re just making a flying visit to Port Moresby, the Airways Hotel has luxurious rooms, lovely pool-and-lounge area and sophisticated restaurants. Make sure you fit in a drink at the Dakota Lounge, located inside an old DC-3.
Photography by Ute Junker, Briar Jensen and PNG Tourism.
Travel Facts
Where to stay
- Airways Hotel , phone +675 324 5200 or visit www.airways.com.pg
- Ambua Lodge, phone +675 542 1438 or visit www.pngtours.com
- Coral Sea Hotels, visit www.coralseahotels.com.pg
- Ela Beach Hotel, phone +675 321 2100 or visit www.coralseahotels.com.pg
- Jais Aben Resort, phone +675 853 3123 or email jaisaben@global.net.pg
- Lissenung Island Resort, phone +675 984 2526 or visit www.lissenung.com
- Loloata Island Resort, phone +675 325 8590 or visit www.loloata.com
- Madang Resort , phone +675 854 1300 or visit www.madangresort.com
- Sepik Adventure Tours (village stays), visit www.ambuntilodge-sepiktour.com.pg
- Trans Niugini Tours (various lodges), phone +675 542 1438 or visit www.pngtours.com
- Tufi Dive Resort, phone +675 323 3462 or visit www.tufi-experience.com
- Walindi Plantation Resort, phone +675 983 5441 or visit www.walindi.com
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