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taiwan in the fast lane
By Judi Tsui.
Published in the January-March 2012 issue.
Thought Taiwan was all business? Think again. This teardrop-shaped island is fast becoming Asia's adventure playground, with activities to suit surfers and cyclists alike - not to mention the feast guaranteed at the end of your outing.
We hop aboard the mini-bus just outside Taipei and are greeted by a smiling driver with deep creases in his tanned cheeks. He shuts the back door after loading our three surfboards, two sets of rock-climbing gear and one pair of cycling shoes – relatively light packing for the three-week adventure ahead.
“Hao de?” he asks, turning back to look at us. We nod excitedly. “Yes, we’re ready – let’s go!”
Once recognised solely for the “Made in Taiwan” imprint beneath countless plastic knick-knacks and electronic goods, this intimate island republic now produces an array of exciting adventures in large measure. From the bustling metropolitan life in the island’s north to the windswept landscapes of the east, the south coast’s tropical living and the culture and commerce of the west, Taiwan is quietly becoming a go-to destination for outstanding play.
Bounded on its west coast by the Taiwan Strait, on its east by the Pacific Ocean, to the north by the East China Sea, and to the south by the Luzon Strait and South China Sea, Taiwan’s 36,000 square kilometres of terrain is reminiscent of that of Hawaii. It’s thought that the island was created some 10 to 20 million years ago, when the Pacific, Philippine and Eurasian tectonic plates bumped to lift landmasses from the sea. Such a collision and subsequent tectonic shifts also gave rise to the bevy of breathtaking natural features that inspired early Portuguese sailors to name it Ilha Formosa – the Beautiful Isle.
Never prone to boasting, the Taiwanese simply smile as their secret slowly reaches the mainstream: this is the place to
go for hiking, cycling, surfing and, of
course, eating.
From small to shockingly large, butterflies abound on any number of Taiwan’s quality hiking trails. With climates that range from tropical to temperate, the country has flora and fauna in abundance, so it’s worth looking around you.
Taiwan’s National Trail System features an island-wide network of well-maintained paths for residents and visitors to trek year-round. Easier trails start around Taipei, while altitude-seekers can find their fix in Yushan and Shei-Pa National Parks. Many travel books suggest that the average hiking pace is three to four kilometres an hour; on Taiwan’s steep trails, however, you’ll be lucky if you cover one kilometre in that time. Thankfully, there are ropes and ladders in place, so even on high-mountain climbs, hikers need few technical skills (though a bit of brawn helps).
In Yangmingshan National Park in Taiwan’s north, hiking is a popular pastime. Originally named Tsaoshan – Grass Mountain – for the tall silvergrass that covers its highest slopes, Yangmingshan was renamed by Chiang Kai-Shek to commemorate his favourite Ming Dynasty philosopher, Yangming Wang. Trails within this national park can be trekked for days on end – we made just a quick stop. What proved even more enticing was a trip to the mountainous township of Wulai.
A 25-kilometre drive from Taipei, Wulai is bordered by an expanse of tropical forest that transports you from the bustle of the city, with its grinding motors, to the quiet of your own breath and the beat of your heart. Compared to its concrete neighbour, Wulai seems gently untamed. Here, thick jungle protects spectacular waterfalls, deep river swimming holes, numerous hiking trails and a myriad
bird species.
The name Wulai is the indigenous inhabitants’ term for “hot springs” and Wulai offers plenty of them. The Japanese, who ruled Taiwan a generation ago, brought their love for onsen (hot springs) to the island, and their influence can be seen in shops and restaurants lining the street that runs through the village on the way to the public hot springs. After spending a day breathing in the intoxicating aroma of the region’s distinctive white butterfly-ginger lilies, I find that Wulai is also a great place to stop and sample local snacks.
Taiwan’s ethnic communities represent just two percent of its overall population, yet they play a vital role in shaping the culture. In Wulai, minority groups take mountain vegetables and turn them into light and flavourful dishes you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere in the world. Don’t miss the zhutong fan – sticky rice, steamed and served in bamboo tubes that you break apart in order to eat.
On Yer Bike!
The farther south we travel, the warmer the temperatures and more lush the vegetation become. Perhaps the best representations of Taiwan’s former “Formosa” moniker are the towering sea cliffs and rock gorges, rice fields and densely wooded mountain ranges of the island’s eastern coast, from Taroko Gorge down through Hualien to Highway 11. With serene scenery, well-maintained roads and great places to stay, this coastline is ideal for cycling.
From challenging high-altitude inclines to leisurely cross-island routes, the eastern coast offers a range of rides that take you along bike-only paths, main roads and mountain-biking trails. Hundreds of kilometres of road lanes and trails around Taipei, Kaohsiung and small towns along the east coast are devoted to cyclists.
What was once simply a utilitarian means of transport throughout the country has become a national pastime in recent years, with the Taiwanese government actively creating and improving cycle paths across the island to cultivate a recreational bike-riding culture. Taiwan’s leading bicycle manufacturer, Giant Bicycles Corporation, is a strong contributor to this effort. Giant not only offers readily accessible rental programs in Taipei, Kaohsiung and along the east coast; it also runs cycling tours that circle the island, complete with support vans, snacks and photographic services. Whether you’re exploring the island with a guide or discovering its nooks and crannies independently, you’re sure to come home with unforgettable memories.
One of the most beautiful routes along Taiwan’s east coast takes you through Taroko Gorge, considered one of Asia’s scenic wonders. With marble-walled canyons, deep and narrow ravines, the blue-green waters of the Liwu River and several secluded shrines and statues along the ride, Taroko is a naturalist’s delight. Part of a national park, the area – especially the ancient hunting paths of Taiwan’s minority populations – has been a popular walking and hiking destination since the 1930s.
If you’re looking for a challenge, cycle from the entrance of the park up to an elevation of 3,700 metres above sea level. We choose the easier way: we ask our driver to take us to Silks Place resort up top so we can “slide down,” which is what Taiwanese like to call downhill riding. Keen to spare ourselves from huffing and puffing, we conserve our energy, stopping to read stone-carved dedications and take in the trail’s highlights: notably, the Eternal Spring Shrine, Swallow Grotto and the Tunnel of Nine Turns.
Nearby, along County Road 193, Hualien County also provides rolling-hill delights. Regarded as the most liveable small city in Taiwan, Hualien offers easy riding over essentially flat countryside, through lush forest, rice paddies and tea fields and past neighbourhood temples. You could also use Hualien as a base for exploring Taroko Gorge, in of one of Taiwan’s seven national parks.
A Dip in the Ocean
Open Surf Taiwan’s website and the first sentence you’ll read is, “There’s surf, in Taiwan?” Happily, I can confirm that there is. The island offers everything from beach breaks to reef points on the north, east and south coasts, as well as spots that both longboarders and shortboarders will enjoy. With warm water temperatures and sizeable waves that rival those in several better-known eastern locales, Taiwan is making its mark – in recent years, it has even hosted professional surfing competitions.
Surf tours are an increasingly popular way for foreigners to bundle accommodation and transportation with the hunt for good waves and the desire for like-minded company. While surfing spots in the north are starting to get crowded – particularly when typhoon season hits and the swell rises – the south is relatively crowd-free year-round, and is an attractive alternative now the island’s new high-speed rail (THSR) can zip you from Taipei to Kaohsiung in just over 90 minutes.
“The south is great: you wake up and there’s ocean in front of you, mountains behind you and clear blue waters for surf,” Sammy Hawkins, an American expat of 15 years’ standing and co-owner of Surf Taiwan tells us.
For the best waves in Kenting, try the waters around Jialeshiu and Nanwan. In Taitung, hit up Leftovers and the Rivermouth at Donghe. And when the waves are mellow, go hiking in Kenting National Park or emulate our favourite adventure: searching for good eats.
Just Eat It
At the mere mention of Taiwan, friends who’ve visited the country immediately exclaim, “Oh, all the xiao chi (snack foods) you’ll eat!” Taiwan’s reputation as a culinary hot spot is spreading, and it’s long been in the running to win the title of best street food in Asia.
The Shilin Night Market is the perfect place to sample dishes you’ve never tried – and, depending on your tastebuds, may never want to try again. The pulse of busy Taipei beats in our ears as we enter this nightly carnival of snacking and shopping. Located across from the Jiantan MRT station, the covered market is filled to the brim with stalls and diners.
Even if you don’t speak Mandarin, it’s easy to order: simply point to what others are devouring. Must-trys include Taiwan’s famous beef-noodle soup, luobo gao (turnip cake), wen doujiang (warm soymilk), fried chicken in a bag, and chou doufu, a stinky tofu dish that your nostrils will immediately notify you is around.
Fresh fruit is also popular, especially the “Buddha head” shi jia, a mushy, seeded delight with a shape resembling that of the curly-haired Sakyamuni Buddha.
And no visit to Taiwan would be complete without a sampling of pearl milk (“bubble”) tea, a light creamy drink with dark gelatinous tapioca balls on the bottom that makes it something of a chewy beverage.
After all the cycling, surfing, hiking and eating, be sure to end your Taiwan adventures at one of the country’s many hot springs. One of the top destinations in the world for naturally mineral-rich waters, Taiwan features springs of all sorts, including sulphur, cold, mud and seabed varieties. All reputedly offer a host of benefits – not the least, that of relaxing sore muscles. •
Photography by Judy Tsuei.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
China Southern Airlines and Air China offer flights from Australian capital cities to Taipei, the Taiwanese capital.
• China Southern Airlines. flychinasouthern.com
• Air China. airchina.com.au
when to go
For outdoor adventures, the weather is generally best across Taiwan from September to November and between April
and June.
where to stay
For luxury with a touch of whimsy in the Taiwanese capital, check in to the W Taipei. starwood.com
For a private hot springs experience, visit the Grand View Resort in Beitou. www.gvrb.com.tw
where to eat
Virtually everywhere in Taiwan is a sure bet for good eats, whether you’re dining on small dishes or ordering fancy feasts. For Shilin Night Market, take the Taipei Metro to Jiantan Station, then turn left on Wenlin Road.
what to do
• Giant Bicycles. giantcyclingworld.com
• Surf Taiwan. surftaiwan.com
further information
Taiwan Tourism can offer tips on making the most of your visit to the country. 1800-824-926; taiwantourism.org
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