Local kids enjoying a sunset swim
Spice Islands
The island of Mauritius is all glammed up with everywhere to go, writes a besotted Kristie Kellahan.
I could tell you that Mauritius has stunningly beautiful beaches, azure seas, a fabulous warm climate and some of the best cuisine in the world (and it does) and you might say… why travel halfway around the world when I can find those things in Australia? To which I would reply: Mauritius will seduce you, draw you in, make you swing your hips to a Creole beat and dream of throwing it all in to fly to the tropics and grow bananas.
With its French style, widely spoken English, impeccably good hotels and service, world-class spas, plus an enticing blend of African, Asian and European influences, Mauritius lures honeymooners, sun-worshippers, golf nuts and spa devotees from around the world. The largest numbers of visitors come from France, South Africa and the United Kingdom; Australian visitor numbers are growing, but are still small compared to the rest of the world. This might change as travellers discover it’s really quite close – just ten hours flying time west of Perth in the direction of Africa. As it is you’re more likely to be sharing sun umbrellas with minor Euro royalty than VB-drinking punters.
A scenic section of Mauritius' coastal road
With a land mass little bigger than 2000 square kilometres, most Mauritians live within splashing distance of the shore. Indeed most visitors are drawn here for the perfect beaches, the 5-star deluxe resorts with restaurants on the sand and the world-class watersports. Deep sea fishing is very popular, while snorkelling in the peaceful lagoons amongst vividly coloured coral gardens is a surefire way to revive a world-weary soul. Waterskiing is also popular, and you’ll find plenty of opportunities for canoeing and windsurfing.
To get a sense of the scale of Mauritius, consider you could drive around the entire island in a day. Surrounded by water on all sides Mauritius: The Abridged Version would be divided into four chapters – north, south, east and west.
The north was the first region to be developed for tourists. Its largest town, Grand Bay (also known as Grand Baie), is the place to head for a big night out of dancing and drinking white rum with the locals, if you dare. Trendy nightclubs, waterfront restaurants, self-contained apartments and small hotels line the streets. Grand Bay is also one of the most popular spots for boats to anchor, making it a good place to pick up a sailing day tour or sunset cruise around the coastline. Yachties abound.
Sunset over a port in the south of the island
There’s a quieter pace in the south, a more local rhythm to the days. Gris-Gris is one of the few places on the island where waves crash against the cliffs; brave brown-skinned teenage boys take running jumps into the ocean. Nearby Souillac is an authentic fishing village; here you’ll find a few small affordable cafés serving lobster caught that morning.
The battle for supremacy between the east and west coasts of Mauritius is patriotically fought by teams on both sides, but really in the end it’s akin to arguing over who is more beautiful: Linda Evangelista or Christy Turlington. Both coastlines are gorgeous. Cheerleaders for the east will claim they have the best beaches. From Blue Bay to Belle Mare the shoreline is dreamy, but is it better than the west? We’ll let you be the judge. The east coasters are justifiably proud of the charming village of Mahebourg on the bay of Grand Port. History buffs will enjoy a ramble around to see the ruins of the first Dutch fortifications; gourmands will enjoy the plentiful seafood.
The west is best, say west coasters. It has the better climate, with more perennially sunny days and less rain. It also has more than its fair share of adventure sports and outdoor recreational activities. The area around Le Morne boasts safe swimming beaches against a stunning mountain backdrop. The white sandy beaches of Flic en Flac have stepped straight out of a Kahlua ad, and there’s an up-and-coming nightlife scene to rival that of Grand Bay.
Tranquility along the coast
It’s all good, I say. The beaches on both sides of the coast are the stuff dreams are made of and the reason so many international visitors head to Mauritius to escape winters at home.
Most visitors will dust the sand off their toes for a tour of the inland, capital city and main harbour town of Port Louis, especially its Central Market and waterfront precinct: here you’ll see locals at play and out in full shopping force (handicrafts and sarongs make popular souvenirs). The Caudan Waterfront is where million-dollar yachts are moored and French seafood restaurants abound. A buzzy, friendly vibe is evident on sunny days. Towards the end of 2009, a new quay and passenger terminal is set to open to accommodate international cruise ships.
Mauritius has earned a great reputation as the home of spectacular golf links with the glittering ocean a perfect backdrop to the emerald green courses. Eighteen holes of manicured green perfection can be enjoyed at the Paradis Hotel at Le Morne, Belle Mare Plage Hotel, Ile aux Cerfs Golf Course and the Golf du Château at Bel Ombre, among others.
Members of the Indian community enjoy the sun
Indulgent spas are the other major drawcard in Mauritius, with an emphasis on French standards of beauty and wellness. Spas by Guerlain and Clarins offer the full range of facials, massages, scrubs and slimming treatments in truly luxe surrounds. Other spas focus more on the Ayurvedic principles of beauty. The 50,000-square-foot destination spa, Shanti Ananda, is possibly the best example of cultural blend. Located within a tropical forest, here you can sample thalassotherapy, Ayurvedic healing, saltwater Watsu treatments, traditional ESPA beauty rituals or the services of bootcamp-style personal trainers. East, West, ancient, modern: as diverse and seductive as Mauritius itself. Kylie Minogue and Natalie Imbruglia recently lamented the man drought in style with a week-long girl’s getaway at the spa.
The unique history of the island goes some way to explaining its allure and cultural mix. A true island of the tradewinds, Mauritius was discovered by Arabs, explored by the Italian and Portugese mapmakers, colonised by the Dutch and made rich on the backs of African slaves who were shipped in to work the land and sea. During the eighteenth century the French East India Company made sugar and spice while the sun shone, capitalising on the plum position of the island (then known as Ile de France), with its close proximity to India.
In 1814, a fierce gun battle between the French and British led to another change of hands. This time the Brits took control, renamed it Mauritius and promised to respect the customs, language and traditions of the local people. By the time Mauritian independence was declared in 1968, the Brits had abolished slavery, built good roads and even better schools, and introduced the game of cricket. Mission accomplished.
A traditional fishing boat
Today the fate of this island nation is self-directed. With her own proud identity, Mauritius is a product of the many different cultures to have influenced her development. Fabulous French bakeries? Tick. African music and dancing at the local nightclub? Tick. Compulsory English lessons for all schoolkids? Tick.
The Creole culture here can be found in the sexy Sega rhythms of song and dance, and the blended cuisine with its Indian, French, Chinese, African and Portugese influences.
Mauritius is no dieter’s paradise. Food in Mauritius is the best of the best: fresh, flavoursome and skillfully prepared by the island’s chefs, many of them brought in from Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand. You’ll hear them talk about fusion cuisine, but to be fair the Mauritian menu repertoire is less about fusion and more about a wide and delicious selection of dishes. Hearty Italian pasta meals, buttery French fish, spicy African rice salad, sweet-and-sour Chinese pork, and zesty Indian curries can all be found on hotel menus in Mauritius – often they can all be found on the same buffet spread.
Organic food is the new trend, following the worldwide passion for clean, green nutrition. Clean and green could also describe the local eco-tourism industry. The Ministry of Tourism has recently introduced a project called Maurice, Ile Durable (Mauritius, the sustainable island) to educate locals and visitors on the natural attractions of the island and how to safeguard their wellbeing for the generations to come. Endangered native plants, animals and birds in the massive Black River Gorge National Park are protected, with visits encouraged, though carefully supervised. Nature lovers will find plenty to explore on the island, from trekking to canyoning and horse riding along the north-west coastline. At Chamarel, another eco-tourism favourite spot in the south-west of Mauritius, the “coloured earth” is an unusual drawcard: created by volcanic rocks that cooled at different temperatures, today the land forms beautiful patterns of varying colour across the hillsides. It’s common to see groups of geologists from Italy, Zimbabwe or New Zealand photographing the rocks and ooh-ing and aah-ing at the tricks the patterns of colour can play on the eyes.
View over the rugged Mauritian hinterland
So much to see, so little time. You could probably cram in the best of Mauritius in a week, but that wouldn’t do its wonders justice: make it at least a fortnight or indulge in the manner of a famous French actor (anonymity requested), who takes up residence for two months each year in a beachside villa at the Paradis Hotel. Now that’s joie de vivre, Mauritian-style. •
Travel Facts
Getting there
Getting around
Where to stay
- See our following story on accommodation for recommendations on hotels and resorts.
tips
- English is the official language, with French and Creole also widely spoken.
- At the time of writing, AU$1 = 27 Mauritian rupees (MUR).
when to go
- Seasons are the same as in Australia. A relatively mild climate is enjoyed year-round, though the best times to visit are between April and June, and September to December.
Further information
|
Capital Gains