Sensational Singapore
Resident expert Daven Wu explains why it’s the best of times to visit this tiny but vibrant island nation.
Mention Singapore and most people probably think of that world-famous retail stretch, Orchard Road; of clean streets and wonderfully atmospheric roadside food stalls. But that barely skims the surface of what the place has to offer. Because over the past decade, almost without anyone noticing, this tiny island state – it takes barely half an hour to zip from one end to the other – has been undergoing something of a cultural Renaissance.
To say that these are the best of times in Singapore borders on cliché but, in this case, it really is true. Visitors arrive at the super-efficient Changi International Airport and step straight into a hip, first-world capital complete with top-notch global cuisine, high fashion, interestingly-curated art exhibitions, high-profile performances and fancy designer furniture boutiques on every corner. All this and year-round tropical sunshine.
There’s a lively buzz in the air – festive, almost; celebratory, most definitely. Indeed, it doesn’t take long into your stay before you realise that every other day, there’s a party happening somewhere in town: a glittering event in the rejuvenated Clarke Quay, perched on a picturesque bend in the Singapore River; a colourful festival in Little India; or a happening on Sentosa island, where sun, sand, spas and fabulous cuisine conspire to tempt you to add a few extra days to your itinerary.
In a country where the traditional Mandarin greeting isn’t “Hello” but rather, “Have you eaten yet?”, food is an obsession. Pack loose-fitting clothes, for the gastronomic offerings here are diverse and eye-opening – from the hearty local fare sold at crowded al fresco hawker centres to haute French, and everything in between.
Over the past year or so, a swag of glitzy restaurants has opened across the island, tempting diners with fresh, inventive menus and gorgeous settings. Current hotspots include the bucolic, tree-cloaked hills of Dempsey and Rochester Park, where gourmands can take their pick of fancy Indian, Italian and Japanese eateries, chic gourmet groceries – including a cavernous Jones the Grocer – and mood-lit bars.
The trick to getting the most out of even a brief stay in Singapore is to venture off the beaten track. Once you’ve done the requisite tour of Orchard Road, head farther out to formerly run-down neighbourhoods, such as Haji Lane in the old Arab quarter, that have been transformed into stylish enclaves replete with bijou boutiques and smart galleries, many housed in beautifully renovated colonial-era shop-houses.
Meanwhile, Singapore’s dance clubs – among them, the world-famous Café del Mar, Ministry of Sound, Zouk and St James PowerStation – thump out their infectious beats, giving the island’s nightlife an exuberant spark.
Singapore’s retail experience always entails sensory overload, especially during the eight-week-long Great Singapore Sale that kicks off each May. Now, the shopping’s being juiced up even more: Orchard Road itself is undergoing a multi-million-dollar makeover, with new shops, new frontages and – this being Singapore, where nothing is done by halves – new shopping towers.
And just when you thought there were no more surprises comes news that, after years of difficult negotiations, Singapore has snagged one of the legs on the prestigious F1 circuit. The inaugural 2008 Formula 1 SingTel Singapore Grand Prix, the first in the upcoming five-year season, is also the world’s first evening F1 race: the three-day event flags off on 26 September 2008, with the main race taking place on 28 September around the Marina Bay area.
Speaking of Marina Bay, it’s exciting to watch the activity around this precinct, where an extraordinary city garden is in the works. The new urban green space is set to open next year: by that time, the entire waterfront will have been transformed into a cultural, entertainment, office and residential hub, complete with an arts and science museum.
Headlining the revamped Marina Bay’s attractions will be the Sands Resort, world-renowned architect Moshe Safdie’s sprawling complex of casino, five-star hotel, ice-skating rink, floating pavilions and luxury retail outlets.
To get a sense of how massive this 110,000-square-metre complex will be, and comprehend the scale upon which Singapore has transformed itself, hitch a ride on the Singapore Flyer. The world’s largest observation wheel (standing 165 metres tall, thank you) offers a dizzying panoramic sweep of downtown Singapore, its New York-like skyline framed by mirror-flat water.
Closer to the ground, Singapore’s evolution as a glamour-puss capital city is perhaps best expressed in its burgeoning arts scene. In recent years, the island state has been an important stop for world acts: Elton John, James Blunt, The Trocks, Jose Carreras, Saturday Night Fever, Rent, We Will Rock You! and Mamma Mia have all swept through town.
Culture vultures will find plenty to engage them here. Since its million dollar face-lift a year ago, the National Museum of Singapore has hosted several big-ticket shows, including a Cartier retrospective and a collection of ancient Greek art and artefacts from the Louvre. The four new Living Galleries – food, fashion, film and photography – focus on the island’s history and have plenty of interactivity to keep kids happy. A few minutes away, the Esplanade Theatres on the Bay – Singapore’s S$600-million theatre complex – has been spoiling arts aficionados with regular symphonic and cultural performances since it opened in 2002. Check the local lifestyle guide, Time Out Singapore, for comprehensive listings of current shows.
Each September, to showcase its cultural credentials, the island hosts the Singapore Biennale, a major event that fills various public spaces and historical buildings with arresting displays by local and international artists.
Meanwhile, those keen to pick up local and regional artwork are spoilt for choice, with numerous really good boutique art galleries tucked away on interesting streets and in quaint, historical neighbourhoods such as Ann Siang Hill Road; at the sprawling MICA building on Hill Street; and around Dempsey Hill.
Singapore’s fascinating Chinatown quarter dates back to the early 19th century: along its narrow streets can be found a world of bakeries selling fragrant Peranakan pastries, medicinal halls offering traditional Chinese medicine and herbal tonics, late-night markets, atmospheric Buddhist and Hindu temples and a cacophony of al fresco eateries.
Cross South Bridge Road into Tanjong Pagar, which dates from the same period but is now a buzzy enclave of chic restaurants – Italian, French, Asian: take your pick – jostling for attention with boutiques, spas, art galleries and cosy bars.
If you’re travelling with the family, Singapore offers a host of child-friendly locations and activities. Don’t miss the Chinatown Heritage Centre: a remarkable recreation, through meticulously constructed room-sets, of life in early- to mid-20th-century Singapore.
Nature-lovers might want to book a breakfast at the Singapore Zoo, where they’ll be thoroughly entertained by a menagerie of bear cats, spider monkeys and gibbons. Then head off to Jurong Bird Park, where everyone will be enchanted by a rainbow of 8000 birds, including flamingos and hornbills. Round off a day of nature touring with the world’s first Night Safari, an innovative zoo tour, on which you’ll get the chance to spot around 900 nocturnal animals from 130 species.
What’s perhaps most astonishing about Singapore is that an island barely clocking in at 700 square kilometres can pack in so much, and with such brio. With its veritable glut of attractions – shopping, dining, cultural experiences, partying, sightseeing – your one regret may be taking so long to get here. •
Photography by Gordon Hammond and Singapore Tourism Board
Travel facts
Getting there
- Singapore Airlines has several daily flights to Singapore from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth, and a daily service from Adelaide. Phone 13 1011 or visit www.singaporeair.com.au
- Qantas (phone 13 1313 or visit www.qantas.com.au) and Jetstar (phone 13 1538 or visit www.jetstar.com.au) also fly to Singapore.
what to do
Where to party
Tips
- At the time of writing, AU$1 = 1.31 Singapore dollars (SGD).
- Though Singapore is usually humid all year round (the mercury hovers around the 30+ degrees Centigrade mark), December to February are generally the best months to visit, as the weather is noticeably cooler.
Further information
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