V&T Daily
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mountain magic
Published in the October-December 2010 issue.
Over the last five decades, Vail and Breckenridge have evolved from rough-and-tumble ski towns into some of Colorado’s most polished resorts. David Latta carves his way down the mountains, checking out what’s new along the way.
When it comes to skiing, your first time is rarely a memory you treasure – generally, it’s something you’d rather forget entirely. It’s a blur of fear and weird angles and hours spent picking yourself up out of the snow. You’re concentrating so hard on staying vertical that you forget the majesty of your surrounds: the ragged mountain peaks, the forests blanketed in deep snow, the tranquil silence once you escape the crowds. By the time you unstrap your boots at the end of the day, you’re left wondering why so many people enjoy the sport.
Vail, one of the most beautiful of Colorado’s many ski resorts, was not the first place I skied. But it was where I began to master my fear and hone my skills; where I transformed from a bumbling beginner into someone comfortable on skis; and where I began to realise how such a sport could become addictive.
I first visited the place – 2,500 metres above sea level and with some 2,100 hectares of skiable terrain – in early 2007. I’m back today, on the eve of the village’s 50-year-anniversary celebrations, to see how things have changed.
If you’re a skier who has experienced only Australian resorts, the first thing you’ll notice about Vail is the sheer amount of snow here: the area’s average annual snowfall hovers around 900 centimetres. On any given morning you’ll wake to a fresh, deep cover of snow that the first skiers of the day carve up with wide, relaxed curves.
Another notable difference to skiing in Australia is the cost. A ski pass to Vail is valid for the entire season and gives you access to the neighbouring Colorado resorts of Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Keystone as well as to Heavenly in Nevada. Each resort is unique: Beaver Creek and Breckenridge are great for beginners with plenty of gentle runs, while experienced skiers can challenge themselves on the back bowls of Blue Sky Basin behind Vail and on the Birds of Prey course at Beaver Creek.
Regardless of which mountain you decide to tackle, you’ll be guaranteed world-class facilities and service. In recent years, more than AU$1.12 billion has been pumped into the redevelopment of Vail Village – the West Lionshead precinct alone has seen the addition of an outdoor skating rink alongside just-opened shops and restaurants around Vail Square.
The centrepiece here, however, is swish new establishment The Arrabelle At Vail Square, a dramatic hotel that would not seem out of place in the Austrian Alps. In addition to rooms, the property features residences and condominiums and when you check in, you’re granted access to a personal concierge, on call around the clock to assist with everything from making restaurant bookings to running your bath.
The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Vail, adding 110 two- to six-bedroom lodgings to the scene, is also set to open this year, as is the Four Seasons Resort Vail, its 121 rooms blending contemporary design with cosy mountain tradition.
These are timely developments indeed: Vail will celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2012, one year after Breckenridge. Established in 1859 to service the Pike’s Peak Gold Rush, Breckenridge has an old-world charm thanks to its handsome historic buildings. A log cabin dating back to 1875 is now a museum; another attraction is Barney Ford House, built in 1882 by an escaped convict who went on to become a civil-rights activist.
Breckenridge also played a role in my evolution as a skier. It was here, near the end of my last stay, where all the hours of ski lessons I’d had over the years began to pay off. But there was considerable pain before that happy day occurred.
On a very basic run, I crashed with such ferocity that I ended up with the rear of one ski and the front of the other embedded deep in the snow. Even now, I can’t recall exactly how I held the position. A member of the town’s ski patrol finally arrived to help me out of my conundrum, but only after he’d taken a photo that is probably still making the rounds of après-ski venues.
I was having trouble with my turns. Big trouble. My instructor decided that the only way we’d resolve the issue would be to have her ski behind me to see where I was going wrong. Once we had identified the problem and I realised how easy it would be to overcome, my confidence grew. I went from doing snow ploughs to parallels and, within a matter of days, I’d decided it was time to take the next step. The blue runs didn’t seem so difficult after all, and I even managed to make it to the end of a run without falling over.
The black runs? Well, maybe I’ll save those for my next Vail visit. •
Photos courtesy of Vail Resorts.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
United Airlines operates flights from Australian capital cities to San Francisco and Los Angeles, with onward connections to Denver, the capital of Colorado. From here, it’s just an hour’s flight to Vail’s Eagle County Airport. 131-777; unitedairlines.com.au
Colorado Mountain Express runs bus transfers from Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Keystone to Denver International Airport. ridecme.com
Mogul Ski World can help organise packages from Australia. 1800-335-724; mogulski.com.au
where to stay
There are dozens of hotels and lodges in Vail from which to choose. Among the best is The Arrabelle at Vail Square, its new, luxurious rooms complemented by genuine down-home hospitality.
arrabelle.rockresorts.com
The soon-to-open Four Seasons Resort Vail will offer smart rooms in addition to a full-service spa, an après-ski lounge and a dedicated ski and snowboard concierge service. fourseasons.com/vail
further information
The Epic Pass costs US$599 (around AU$669) and gives you access to six resorts for the entire season: Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone and Arapahoe Basin in Colorado as well as Heavenly ski resort at Lake Tahoe, Nevada. epicpass.com
The Vail ski season opens in early November and runs until mid-April. For tips on when to go: vail.com
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