The polished appeal of Milan is just one aspect of a city renowned for its cutting-edge fashion. David Latta treads carefully in the footsteps of the paparazzi.

To that quirky little sub-species of the human race known as the fashionista, Milan is the centre of the universe. Forget Paris, London and New York, it’s just the thought of this western Lombardy city that has their starved hearts beating that much faster. The headquarters of such high-profile fashion brands as Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Armani, Milan conjures images of whippet-thin supermodels wearing sunglasses at night and paparazzi straining to catch fleeting images of pampered celebrities in all their carefully-studied elegance.  

But on this hot, early summer morning, it is certainly hard to marry the dream with reality. The Piazza del Duomo is swarming with pigeons, life and more pigeons. The tourists, however, present their own take on pestilence. Birkenstocks are the new Manolo Blahniks, it seems, and there are far too many undersized stretch tank tops and baggy cargo shorts on oversized bodies.

If supermodels look as if they couldn’t find an all-you-can-eat buffet with a GPS unit, these guys appear to have spent far too long troughing down at Sizzler. The Milanese who skirt the Duomo pretend not to notice but their horror is thinly-veiled by their carefully averted gazes.

Ethereal beauty is in short supply but the Duomo more than makes up for it. It’s the second-largest cathedral in Italy after St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Construction started in 1386 and inched forward for the next 500 years. There’s no better time to see the Duomo in all its glory; a decades-long restoration project is in its final stages and its pale stonework gleams like never before.

Holding up to 40,000 people, this majestic building is 157 metres long with a spire capped by a golden statue of the Madonna topping out at almost 107 metres. In all, it has 135 spires and 3200 statues, creating a remarkable confection of divinity.

While much of Milan was heavily bombed during World War II and rebuilt in some of the most hideously neutral architecture imaginable, the square has a timeless appeal. It’s in keeping with Milan’s captivating serenade of dignified civility and gentleness.

While the tourist sites are always a pull, across from the Duomo is an astonishing embodiment of Milan’s duality. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is a covered double arcade, four storeys in height, built between 1865 and 1877. Containing shops, restaurants and bars, the intersection of the two arcades is crowned by a massive glass dome. No surprises that Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton are representive of the high-end retailers here but there’s also a quietly tasteful McDonald’s with a terrace perfect for admiring the estimable procession of well-dressed locals on their daily jaunts.

Exit at the opposite end of the Galleria from the Duomo and there’s another reminder of Milan’s urbanity. Teatro alla Scala opened in 1778 and has been a magnet for opera lovers ever since. Severely damaged during World War II and subsequently rebuilt, it has hosted the soaring egos of such legends as Maria Callas.

The La Scala Museum has an enormous collection of artwork, costumes and set designs with an emphasis on Verdi, where many of his operas premiered. The Simoni Library houses a research centre with more than 120,000 books devoted to opera.

Just to prove that Milan is not just about stirring the dust of history, it may be time to take a shopping break and venture into the heart of high fashion. The Quadrilatero della Moda is bordered by Borgospesso, Montenapoleone, Sant’Andrea and Della Spiga, a leisurely 10-minute walk from the Piazza del Duomo.

Any Italian designer worth his panettone has stores here, from Valentino, Versace and Zegna through to D&G and Fendi. Giorgio Armani shines in Milan; he spent E30 million on a new corporate headquarters designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando and his entire fashion universe is on display here including accessories and homewares.

An example of the attention to detail given to fashion in Milan is Sermoneta Gloves on Via Della Spiga, where each of their gorgeous designs comes in a rainbow choice of colours.

After battering the credit cards, perhaps it’s best to get back to culture. Milan has a special relationship with Leonardo Da Vinci; he spent much of his early career under the patronage of Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan. One of Da Vinci’s greatest masterpieces, the fresco of the Last Supper, can be found in the dining hall of the Santa Maria della Grazie convent.

At almost nine metres in length, it is a remarkable embodiment of Leonardo’s art. Ever the innovator, he eschewed the traditional and long-lasting method of utilising tempura on wet plaster and painted it onto dry plaster instead. The result is that it almost immediately started to peel so, over the centuries, it has been constantly retouched and repainted and Leonardo’s original paint-strokes have long-since vanished. However, the force and majesty of his vision remains.



Access is strictly controlled and tickets are sold out months in advance; the best way to see it on short notice is to visit with an organised tour.

Another example of Leonardo’s art can be seen at the Castello Sforzesco. Between 1496 and 1498, he painted a forest scene in what has become known as the Sala delle Asse room. Once again, it has been retouched many times over the years yet remains an indelible link with the Renaissance master.

The Castello, a massive fortress built between the 1360s and the 1450s, is a cultural centrepiece of Milan. Legions of cats now comfortably make their home in what was once the stronghold of the Sforza dynasty. For tourists, there are six different museums within its sturdy walls with priceless collections of ancient weaponry and armour, medieval and Renaissance art, prehistoric artefacts and decorative arts. Within the Museo delle Arti Decorative are the amazing Trivulzio tapestries in wool and silk, illustrating life at the turn of the 16th century.

Across the road from the Castello is the Museo d’Arte e Scienza, housed in a former 16th century monestary, with a section devoted to Leonardo’s work in Milan. Here, working models of some of his famous inventions including mechanised weapons can be found.

Milan is very much a city of senses. Whether you want to indulge your inner fashionista or wrap yourself in the mantle of history, there’s something for everybody in this amazing place.

Travel facts:

Getting there

• Singapore Airlines flies from many Australian capital cities to Rome via Singapore with connections to Milan. For bookings, phone 13 1011 or visit www.singaporeairlines.com
• Both CIT Holidays and ATI Tours have a wide range of packages to Italy. Phone CIT Holidays on 1300 361 500 or visit www.citholidays.com.au or phone ATI Tours on 1300 888 997 or visit www.atitours.com.au

Getting around

• For rail travel options to and from Milan phone Italia Rail on 1300 387 245 or visit www.italiarail.com.au

Where to stay

• The luxury boutique Park Hyatt Milan is located within the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. For bookings, phone +39 2 8821 1234 or visit www.milan.park.hyatt.com
• For more realistic budgets, the Ariston Hotel is a ten-minute walk to the Piazza del Duomo. For bookings, phone +39 2 7200 0556 or visit www.aristonhotel.com

Where to eat

• The Cantina della Vetra is a closely-guarded neighbourhood secret, adjacent to the beautiful Byzantine-era Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore. For bookings, phone +39 2 8940 3843.

Tips

• At the time of writing, $1AUD = .59 Euro (EUR).
• The tourist season is at its most frantic between June and August. Spring and autumn are the best seasons to travel.

Further information

• Contact the Italian Government Tourist Office. Phone 02 9262 1666 or visit www.italiantourism.com.au
• The Milan Tourist Board or I.A.T. can be contacted on +39 2 7252 4301.