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Malaysia's Boom Time

This engaging tropical destination with thoroughly modern infrastructure is all kinds of wonderful, discovers Kristie Kellahan.

For a nation state just 50 years young, Malaysia is certainly showing the world she’s all grown up. From the skyscrapers of Kuala Lumpur to the refined tea plantations of the Cameron Highlands and dreamy beach resorts of the east coast, Malaysia offers visitors a warm welcome in a culturally diverse and exotic locale.

Malaysians are rightfully proud of their country: the annual Merdeka Day celebrations mark official recognition of Malaysia’s successful, independent spirit after decades of colonial rule. The best of the British has been retained in the form of traditional high tea, served every day between 3 and 5pm, and in a legacy of widely spoken English, but today, Malaysia is distinctly her own country.



Recent campaigns enticing visitors to spend valuable vacation time here have been built around a slogan touting Malaysia as “truly Asia” – and indeed, it is an intoxicating mix of Malay, Indian, Chinese and other Asian cultures, with Portuguese and European influences, all packaged together with top-notch infrastructure that eliminates many of the challenges of travelling in nearby countries.

Kuala Lumpur – or KL, as it’s commonly known – is the capital of Malaysia and the flag-bearing emblem of the nation’s prosperity and accelerated development. Your first glimpse of the city’s relentless push to modernise comes at KLIA, Kuala Lumpur’s International Airport. Its architecture seemingly inspired by a Jetsons fantasy, KLIA is the sprawling, ultra-modern gateway to this thriving multicultural nation.

It’s been suggested that if Bangkok and Singapore had a love child, it might look a lot like Kuala Lumpur. As efficient and modern as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur retains a staunchly Asian identity and an exciting vein of unpredictability akin to Bangkok’s. KL’s thrilling blend of old and new worlds can be experienced first-hand on any city block. Shopping, dining, cultural tours and the buzz of city life are all drawcards here, with tourist numbers increasing every year.



An important part of the nation’s hospitality is its wonderful food: Malaysian cuisine brings together multiple cultural influences in a delicious melting pot. Don’t be surprised to find Malay curry, crispy Indian roti and Chinese stir-fry all served in one meal. The food courts of KL’s glitzy shopping malls – often elegant extravaganzas – are great places to sample many different dishes in one sitting. Street food is ridiculously cheap and fresher than fresh.

  You don’t have to venture far from the capital to see a completely different face of Malaysia. Where KL teems with ritzy malls and high-tech everything, portside city Melaka, also known as Malacca, is a living, breathing museum, chronicling the period in Malaysia’s history when trade winds blew untold riches through the Straits of Melaka from Thailand, Indonesia, India and China. Stroll the quiet streets here and it’s not a stretch to imagine you’re on the set of a historical film.

If its colonial charm, rich history and diverse modern society have convinced you to stay longer in Malaysia, there are some fascinating pockets of the country to explore. Beach resorts along the east and west coasts offer tropical holiday experiences to match every budget, from six-star private island getaway Pangkor Laut to family-holidays-made-easy in Penang.



Along the east coast, you’ll find the undiscovered island gems that so many holiday brochures promise, yet rarely deliver – such as the Perhentian Islands, basking in the South China Sea about 25 kilometres offshore from the commercial port of Kuala Besut. Take your pick of Perhentian Besar, the bigger and more developed of the two, and Perhentian Kecil, a sleepier version of island paradise. Both can be reached by motorboat from Kuala Besut.

In the Perhentian Islands, days are dictated by Mother Nature: even your arrivals and departures are determined by the tides. Visitors rise with the sun and go to bed early, as most of the beach huts are, mercifully, minus television sets.

Hotels with mod cons and swimming pools for the kids can be found on Perhentian Besar, while on Perhentian Kecil, the vibe is more relaxed: rows of beachfront chalets and huts are serviced by the only village, which consists of little more than a few sandy-floored restaurants, a mosque and a police station.



Gracious Muslim hosts serve up lemon-juice sodas and fragrant curries with gorgeous views of an orange sun setting over the tranquil waters off Long Beach. It’s an idyllic scene, worth thousands of dollars but on sale for a few ringgit.

Sun-worshipping, snorkelling, diving and beach volleyball are popular ways to pass the time in the Perhentians. For frazzled urbanites, the opportunity to slow down to “island time” could be the greatest pleasure of all.

The Perhentian Islands are bursting with wildlife, too: get up close and personal with turtles, huge monitor lizards, reef fish and black-tipped reef sharks. Nature walks around the islands showcase the lushness of it all.

In addition to the Perhentian Islands, the east coast lays claim to several gems. Nearby Redang Marine Park, encompassing nine beautiful islands in the Redang Archipelago, is a classy region peppered with glamorous resorts and upscale bars and restaurants. Snorkelling here, in clear waters populated by colourful tropical fish, should impress even city cynics.

Of course, there’s more to Malaysia than teeming cities and tranquil tropical islands. If seeking respite from the heat, you can also head for the hills – the Cameron Highlands, that is. This cool tea-producing region has been popular with expats for hundreds of years; nowadays, it offers family-friendly attractions including strawberry farms, markets and rolling green tea plantations.
At Cameron Highlands Resort, spa indulgence and quality tea combine in a range of unique treatments: impersonate a tea bag as you lie back in a deep, warm bath of rose petals, scented tea leaves and lime slices – unusual, but utterly relaxing.

Spa retreats are big business in Malaysia, where the latest international trends and techniques are married with traditional healing ways. Spa Village, on Pangkor Laut and at the Ritz-Carlton in KL, is a world-class spa operator offering a diverse menu of treatments inspired by Asian and European traditions. Their signature Sensory Journey engages the senses of smell, taste, sound and sight before satiating the sense of touch with a relaxing foot massage.

Many city hotels have introduced wonderful spas in recent years, and you’ll find an exceptional range of beautician and massage services in KL’s shopping malls. Massages by trained blind masseuses come highly recommended.

So there you have it – a brief introduction to the wonders of modern Malaysia. The message is loud and clear: Malaysia is ready to welcome visitors with open arms. Explore her cities, stroll on her beaches and taste her deliciously temperate highlands. Do it all, or do just a little. The choice is yours. •

Travel facts

Getting there

  • Malaysia Airlines flies from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Brisbane and Perth to KL. Phone 13 2627 or visit www.malaysiaairlines.com
  • Singapore Airlines flies to KL via Singapore. Phone 13 1011 or visit www.singaporeair.com
  • Air Asia X flies to KL from Perth and Gold Coast. Phone 1300 760 330 or visit www.airasia.com
  • Jetstar (phone 13 1538 or visit www.jetstar.com) and Qantas (phone 13 1313 or visit www.qantas.com.au) have flights from Sydney to Kuala Lumpur.

Where to stay

Kuala Lumpur

Tips

  • At time of writing, one Australian dollar was buying 3.10 Malaysian Ringgits (MYR).
  • Bartering is expected in markets. As a general rule, respond with an offer of 40 per cent of what the seller originally quotes, and negotiate from there.
  • If travelling around the country, it is advisable and affordable to arrange a private car and driver. Talk to your hotel concierge or travel agent for recommendations.

Further information
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