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lisbon lights up
by Lisa Perkovic
Published in the July-September 2012 issue.
Portugal’s once-sleepy capital today offers a provocative mix of old-world charms and high-design energy. Here, the restaurants, hotels, shops and attractions stealing the spotlight.
The national music might be melancholic but the rhythm of Lisbon is all about life. Listen for the mournful strains of the fado in the streets, but don’t be surprised if you hear a bit of jazz or pop mixed in. With a history that includes Crusaders, Moors and Napoleon Bonaparte, Lisbon is used to mixing things up.
The city’s suburbs each have their own identities: venture into Belém for a tasty slice of history, up to the Barrio Alto for a drink as the sun sets and over to Chiado to visit old friends like Cartier and Hèrmes.
Where to eat
In the devastating earthquake of 1755, much of the city was levelled and tremors were felt as far afield as Cornwall. From almost as long ago, English holidaymakers have journeyed to this edge of Europe to soak up some sun and a little (not too much!) Portuguese culture. Luckily, the days in which egg and chips were served at almost every Lisbon restaurant are long gone. Today, the Portuguese are bringing regional flavours back to life in kitchens all over the city.
High on Rua Marquês de Fronteira is Restaurante Eleven, where esteemed chef Joachim Koerper has held court for almost a decade and was recently awarded another Michelin star to add to his apron. Sitting above Parque Eduardo VII in the prestigious Amália Rodrigues Gardens, the restaurant has spectacular views over the city and serves up dishes almost as memorable – try the scallop-and-lemon confit risotto with wine from the Douro region and leave room for dessert – perhaps a tangerine crème brûlée.
Another culinary hotspot is Largo, where diners sit next to giant tanks of jellyfish under the domed arches of these former cloisters. In Largo’s kitchen, traditional Portuguese dishes are given new leases on life: here, bacalhau (a regional specialty of dried, salted codfish) is served with wild mint bread quenelles.
At Bica Do Sapato, the beautiful people come out to play. Offering fine dining, a sushi bar and a cafeteria, this culinary complex occupies a converted warehouse on the riverfront at Santa Apólonia. Actor John Malkovich is one of the owners, and celebrity sightings are not infrequent.
If you want to meet Lisbon locals, stroll along the cobblestone streets of the Alfama precinct. The oldest district in the city weaves up towards the Castelo de São Jorge (Castle of St. George). Hole-in-the-wall café proprietors fire up small hot plates and BBQs right out on the street. Order grilled sardines to go or squeeze into a seat and ask for the day’s catch.
Lisbon has a long history of producing delectable filled pastries. The monks at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Monastery of Jerónimos) were baking pastéis de nata (an egg-custard tart you might know as the Portuguese tart) for years before their monastery was closed during the liberal revolution of the 1820s. In 1837, an expelled labourer began producing the tasty treats with the monks’ recipe – and more than 100 years later, the operation hasn’t moved far from its source.
Just up the street from the palatial monastery sits Pastéis de Belém. Typically, the line extends out the door and down the street from this beautiful bakery. Light and fluffy, each with a sprinkling of cinnamon-sugar on top, thousands of pastéis de Belém are snapped up every day by tourists, locals and the likes of Jamie Oliver. Take your tarts to go or sit and sip bica (espresso) in the blue-and-white-tiled room out the back.
What to do
There’s more history to be found in this ancient city than that behind its edible treats. Pastéis de Belém is conveniently located in Lisbon’s historic quarter, so you can munch on morning tea before strolling down to the waterfront promenade. Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) is an imposing fortified limestone structure dating from the 16th century. In bright sunlight – something they have plenty of in Lisbon – the limestone is almost blinding.
Nearby and just as white and bright is the impressive Monument to the Discoveries. Head up the road and you’ll run across the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum), where you can spend the city’s hottest hours out of the sun. Once the old riding arena of Belém Palace, the large space is so gilded it glitters. The 17th-century ceremonial chaises and royal coaches housed here have more plumes and pomp than a peacock. The plainest, but most interesting vehicle is a simple black carriage, standing solemnly at the exit. Look closely and you’ll see bullet holes denting the sides from when King Carlos I and his son Luis Filipe were assassinated in 1901.
To learn more about the country’s colourful past, Museu da Cidade (City Museum). Located in Palácio Pimenta, King Dom João V’s 18th-century palace, its exhibitions of watercolours, tile panels and city models are captivating.
Once you’ve seen the decorative tiles displayed here, you’ll be itching to get back outside and explore the streets – that’s where the real art lives. Walls, window frames, churches, seats, fountains – every imaginable surface is prime real estate for exquisitely decorated tiles. Scenes of great nautical voyages, histories of the city and its hard-won battles have been documented in blue-and-white ceramic tiles. Head underground to the metro stations, where artists are making modern interpretations cool enough to clear graffiti of its bad name.
Where to shop
Shopping culture in Lisbon isn’t as big as it is in other major European cities. Although you’ll find major brands, boutique stores and emerging designer labels, you’re just as likely to find shops that double as cafés and convert into bars.
Start the day with a stroll along the Avenidade da Liberdade, home to a slew of luxury high-end designers: Chanel, Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton. You’ll also find landscaped gardens and grandiose 19th-century buildings. The street itself, connecting the Restauradores and Marquês de Pombal squares, is a work of art, with monuments to important Portuguese figures every few metres.
If you’re after one-of-a-kind, custom-made products, head to the Chiado district, where boutiques line the cobblestoned streets. Squeeze inside Luvaria Ulisses, where the leather gloves have been made since 1925 and are more like works of art than accessories. Owner Carlos Carvalho is a magician, measuring your hands in a glance – but he’ll check with tracing paper and a measuring tape in case. Next door is Joalharia do Carmo, where handmade gold jewellery has been lovingly displayed since 1924.
For something more modern, make your way to the Bairro Alto, where boho designers have made their mark. Fátima Lopes is one of Portugal’s international stars, known for her sleek, sensual designs – the his-and-hers store is also a workshop and bar.
Where to sleep
Perched on a hill overlooking the city, the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon offers impeccable service; the rooms are a collage of colourful drapes and cushions, and the 400-metre rooftop running track is a winner with fitness fans.
Offering a similar standard of service but with oodles more character, Pestana Palace, in the historic quarter near the Monastery of Jerónimos, is practically a national monument. Built for the Marquis of Valle Flor in the early 19th century, the palace is a pretty picture of buttercup-yellow walls and white balconies. Rooms are decorated with period furniture and original paintings of the Marquis and his daughters.
If you’d prefer something 21st century but conveniently sited in the historical district, head to Altis Belém Hotel & Spa. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls in guest rooms and the hotel’s restaurant, café, bar and lobby look out onto the Tagus River; it’s a view that’s a breath of fresh air after the city’s dark museums and narrow streets.
Take a break from the sightseeing with a long lunch at Altis Belém’s Michelin-starred Feitoria Restaurante & Wine Bar – or nab a seat on the terrace and watch the sun set with a cocktail or two. Then head to the pool, where there’s a great, crowd-free view of the Monument to the Discoveries.
High above the city centre is the Bairro Alto Hotel. Overlooking the Praça Luís de Camões (Luís de Camões Square), this luxury boutique hotel sits in the heart of the nocturnal party district of Chiado, but you’ll still get some sleep, thanks to heavy double-glazed windows. Guest rooms and suites are a riot of colour and comfort.
If you want to get away from the city bustle, make the mountaintop fortress Sintra your first stop. If you’re driving, though, be prepared to navigate with nerves of steel, because the Portuguese are as passionate behind the wheel as they are on the street. •
Photography by Lisa Perkovic.
getting there
Etihad and Emirates fly from Australia to Lisbon, via Abu Dhabi and Dubai, respectively.
• Emirates. 1300-303-777; emirates.com
• Etihad Airways. 61-2/8024-7200; etihad.com
when to go
Northern Europeans flock to Lisbon during summer and winter. Temperatures reach the high 20s in July and August. Make the most of the long daylight hours in those
summer months.
where to stay
• Altis Belém Hotel & Spa. Doca do Bom Sucesso; 351-210/400-200; altishotels.com
• Bairro Alto Hotel. Praça Luís de Camões 2; 351-213/408-288; bairroaltohotel.com
• Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon. Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88; 351-213/811-400; fourseasons.com/Lisbon
• Pestana Palace. Rua Jau, 54; 351-213/615-600; pestana.com
where to eat
• Bica Do Sapato. 351-218/810-320; bicadosapato.com
• Largo Restaurante. 351-213/477-225; largo.pt
• Pastéis de Belém. 351-213/637-423; pasteisdebelem.pt
• Restaurante Eleven. 351-213/862-211; restauranteleven.com
where to shop
• Fátima Lopes. Rua da Atalaia, 36; 351-213/240-546; fatima-lopes.com
• Joalharia do Carmo. Rua do Carmo, 87B 351-213/424-200.
• Luvaria Ulisses. Rua do Carmo, 87A; 351-213/420-295; luvariaulisses.com
what to do
• Ibertours can help organise tours around Portugal. 61-3/9867-8833. ibertours.com.au
• Torre de Belém (Belém Tower). 351-213/019-646.
• Museu da Cidade (City Museum). 351-217/513-200. museudacidade.pt
• Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Monastery of Jerónimos). mosteirojeronimos.pt
• Monument to the Discoveries. 351-213/031-950.
• Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum). 351-213/610-850. en.museudoscoches.pt
further information
For additional information on accommodation, tours and activities, go to visitportugal.com
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