V&T Daily
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island of plenty
Published in the January-March 2009 issue.
World-class restaurants, cool bars and a host of tempting shops add to the carnival atmosphere of a holiday in Mauritius, writes Julia Bound.
Lazing on a pristine white-sand beach in Mauritius sounds tempting but, with so many fabulous dining options, shopping bargains and lively nightlife in the mix, your days and nights may be more action-packed than you’d planned.
Dining in Mauritius is an event to be savoured. From simple curried fish, available for next to nothing at the waterfront markets of Port Louis to memorable fine dining at Alain Ducasse’s Spoon des Iles, cuisine here is an equal celebration of local flavours and the numerous ethnic influences that have helped shape this island off Africa’s east coast.
Locals will tell you that the best way to start the day is with a snack from one of the small teashops that line the roadside in the capital. A crispy baguette with French butter, wrapped around spicy lentil cakes, is a typical Mauritian breakfast: served with sweet, black local tea, it will set you back less than a dollar.
If you’d rather not venture far from your hotel (Mauritian hospitality is world-class and its hotels are almost universally good), make the most of the lavish buffet spreads at breakfast and lunch. They are generally relaxed, albeit kilojoule-ladened affairs, and include dishes from around the world. Lunch could also be a snack by the pool or, for those setting out on sightseeing tours, a lunch-box prepared by the hotel chef.
Dinnertime is an altogether more formal occasion. Francophiles, along with those who’ve had the pleasure of tasting Alain Ducasse’s superlative food in Paris, London and Hong Kong, flock to Spoon des Iles. Based on Ducasse’s principles of French gastronomy, dishes here make best use of local produce and the spices of the islands. Spoon specialises in degustation menus matched with spectacular wines; the food is pricey but exceptional.
At Constance Le Prince Maurice, don’t miss Le Barachois, the hotel’s unique floating restaurant, where daily specials are based on what’s arrived fresh off the local fishing boats. Awesome sunsets and a romantic open-air setting make this a special place to enjoy superlative grilled seafood and prime cuts of meat.
Art-lovers book months in advance for a table at Le Café des Arts in Victoria, a restored sugar mill that now houses a treasure-trove of art by Matisse’s former student, Maniglier. Lobster, prime beef and prawns feature on the chef’s specials menu, and all this delectable produce is served to a select audience – no more than a dozen or so tables a night.
The concept of “half board” – accommodation with breakfast and dinner included in the tariff – is popular at many of the hotels in Mauritius. At Dinarobin Hotel Golf & Spa and Paradis Hotel & Golf Club, lavish buffets are included in the daily guest rates. For diners seeking something a bit different, a range of fine-dining restaurants with menus spanning the culinary spectrum is available at both resorts – guests can mix things up with a light buffet dinner one evening and a five-course extravaganza the next.
Paradis Hotel’s La Ravanne restaurant showcases Creole cuisine in a breathtaking waterfront setting: diners arrive at the restaurant’s intimate island dining floor by boat and are greeted by Sega dancers and flaming torches.
Most nights, Dinarobin Hotel’s Saveurs des Iles restaurant is packed with honeymooning couples sharing French specialties under the stars and swaying palms. An impressive degustation menu, paired with wines from France, South Africa and Australia, is available at extra cost. Leave offspring, if you have them, with a minder: guests under 12 years old aren’t permitted.
Local Sega dancers are the principal after-dinner entertainment on the island. All Mauritius’ five-star hotels offer local song and dance shows for guests, complete with beating drums and high-energy dancers. Lounge singers and cover bands are also popular, generally rolling out Top 40 hits and cheesy old favourites (feel free to sing along).
Hotel entertainment here is somewhat sanitised: for a taste of authentic local nightlife, head for Flic en Flac or Grand Baie. Popular nightspots include the Buddha Beach Bar and Paradox Club: here, visitors and locals mingle over rum punch and R&B in a casually chilled atmosphere. Open-air beachfront bars with white sand underfoot represent much of what is best about tropical island life. Don’t bother dressing up or donning fancy footwear – thongs and sexy maxi-dresses are the go for women; gents generally show up in casual chinos and cotton shirts.
Daytime brings multiple opportunities to get active and explore the island. Keen shoppers might want to head directly to Port Louis’ waterfront markets. The fresh fruit and veg sections, with their colourful produce displays and pantomiming vendors, make for good photo ops. If you’re browsing for souvenirs, head upstairs, where intricately beaded Indian kaftans jostle for stall space with wooden drums from Africa and Chinese lacquerware.
Mauritius, an island blessed by the trade winds, has a long, rich trading history – and the tradition continues today, with Mauritian markets acting as a hub for an abundance of exotic goods from everywhere. Bright coral beads are an inexpensive souvenir, as are colourful beach sarongs. Some of the best buys can be found in the markets’ basketware sections, where you can haggle for woven bags, baskets, platters and boxes in every size and shape imaginable. Glamorous resort wear, strappy sandals and designer handbags are available in hotel boutiques, and the chance to spend time in air-conditioned comfort is a perfect excuse for supplementing your wardrobe.
For many people, the best take-home reminder of the island is a painting or limited-edition photograph by a local artist. Browse the galleries around Caudan Waterfront and the mini-malls of Grand Baie for bright-hued scenes of daily life captured on canvas and on film.
A holiday ends all too soon but, with souvenirs such as these, the memories of Mauritius will live on. •
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
getting around
where to stay
- See our story on accommodation for recommendations on hotels and resorts.
where to eat
further information
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