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into africa
Published in the April-June 2011 issue.
On the lip of Victoria Falls, an upscale hotel offers Jon Underwood a tantalising taste of Zambian hospitality, not to mention cool respite from the African sun.
Truth be told, I’ve done some pretty daft things in my time. But jumping into the Zambezi River just metres from the edge of the Victoria Falls definitely takes the cake.
The day had started rather sedately. I’m part of a tour group following in the footsteps of explorer Dr. David Livingstone, who reputedly became the first European to see the falls in November 1855 and at their sight remarked “…scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”
A boat drops us off at Livingstone Island. We’ve been told to bring our swimmers and I have visions of a leisurely dip before lunch. But that illusion is shattered when I find myself perched on jagged rocks watching my companions leap into the Devil’s Pool, a dark and foreboding body of water on the edge of the 108-metre-high falls that sprawl between Zambia and Zimbabwe.
It’s at moments like these you find out whether you’re man or mouse. I’m reaching for the cheddar when my turn is called. Girding what little loins I have left, I bid farewell to my family and jump.
My leap of faith is worth it. With our guide hanging on to my legs I am able to lean right over the edge of the falls and peer into the chasm below. Fear and trepidation are replaced with awe and wonder as I enjoy a front-row show of nature’s power. The spray from this gargantuan body of water can reach a height of more than 300 metres and can be seen from up to 50 kilometres away, leading members of the Kololo tribe (living in the area in the 1800s) to call it Mosi-Oa-Tunya, or “the smoke that thunders.”
Of course, you don’t have to risk life and limb to get a spectacular view of Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. An equally spectacular view of the 1.7-kilometre-wide curtain of water can be enjoyed from the comfort of a helicopter. From the air you also get the opportunity to spot buffalo, elephants, crocodiles and hippos, either in the Zambezi River or the surrounding Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park. Micro-light flights, jet boating and white-water rafting excursions are available, or you can simply take a walking tour.
Perhaps the most leisurely way to explore the area is on a Zambezi River cruise, particularly alluring at sunset when the water sparkles and animals come out to play. I had hoped to see some crocodiles but had to content myself with hippos and birds. Lack of fauna aside, cruising down the fourth-longest river in Africa – refreshing beverage in one hand, video camera in the other – isn’t too disappointing.
My base for the next few days is The Royal Livingstone Hotel, set in the small town of Livingstone and within walking distance of the falls. Overlooking the Zambezi, the luxurious property is a paradise for animal lovers. Hippos frolic in the river and one afternoon, I see a bull elephant wading through the water upstream – at one point, the river is so deep I can only see the mighty pachyderm’s trunk.
This is the kind of place where you can’t turn your back for a moment. Because there are no predators in the immediate area, I see zebras grazing on the hotel’s helicopter landing pad, impala in the garden’s undergrowth and giraffes chewing nonchalantly on tall trees. No bars, no cages – just wild animals as they should be: in the wild.
Sadly, the only place I glimpse crocodile during my Zambian adventure is on the hotel menu. I decide to skip the croc confit with capers and instead opt for the more traditional but still enthralling grain-fed Zambian beef, which has been marinated in cocoa, coffee and a hint of chilli. The taste is as spectacular as the restaurant’s view of Victoria Falls.
The Royal Livingstone prides itself on being a reminder of Zambia’s past. It’s the kind of hotel where the melodic strains of a string quartet waft from the lobby on the afternoon breeze, where high tea involves heavy silver and clotted cream, and where you don’t have to dress for dinner but really feel as though you should.
While the hotel is steeped in history, there’s nothing old-fashioned about the facilities, the food or the impeccable service. You’ll be overwhelmed by the friendliness of the staff, who go above and beyond what is expected at a five-star resort. My massage in a private gazebo on the riverbank is one of the most marvellous experiences I’ve ever had.
My guided excursion in to Livingstone is equally enjoyable. A tour of the town takes in a number of grand buildings dating back to the early 1900s, including the North Western Hotel – the first of its kind in the town – which opened in 1906 but sadly stands derelict today. The Capitol Theatre, circa 1931, still shows films and can hold more than 400 people. Later, we pass the town’s chaotic flea market in Senanga Road, selling everything from belts and bags to blankets and booze.
But my shopping destination is the Mukuni Victoria Falls Craft Village, a small strip of kiosks selling handcrafted curios, arts and crafts. Here I find animals carved from wood, brightly coloured fabrics and piles of jewellery. Bargaining is expected and encouraged but when most of the merchandise costs around AU$20, I’m reluctant to quibble.
The highlight of the tour is a visit to the David Livingstone Museum, home to the most comprehensive collection of the explorer’s memorabilia and personal effects in the world. I peruse items that Livingstone carried with him on his adventures – his surgical instruments, weapons, a coat – as well as letters he wrote to friends and colleagues while he was away. His extensive family tree is mapped out on one wall and you can follow his early career right up to the point he was found kneeling by the side of his bed, dead from malaria, dysentery and exhaustion.
On my last night, I enjoy a special treat with a trip aboard the Royal Livingstone Express, a lovingly restored steam train with luxurious carriages in which passengers can enjoy a superb five-course dinner. As we pull out of the station, hordes of children emerge from the back streets. They run, waving and clapping as we chug past, with smiles as wide as the Victoria Falls themselves.
I always knew visiting Africa would be a memorable experience, but my trip to Zambia moved me in ways I could not have imagined. The setting, the chance to get up close – but not too personal – with wild animals, and the friendliness of the Zambian people are memories that will stay with me long after the holiday snaps have been forgotten.
Out of Africa? I can’t wait to go back. •
Photographs courtesy of Sun International.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
Under a code-share agreement, South African Airways (SAA) and Qantas fly direct from Perth and Sydney to Johannesburg. SAA have connections from Johannesburg to Livingstone.
• Qantas. 131-313; qantas.com.au
• SAA. 1300-435-972; flysaa.com
getting around
Companies offering luxurious safari options around Kenya and Africa include:
• Adventure World. 61-8/9417-9666; adventureworld.net.au
• Creative Travel. creativetravel.com.au
• Wildlife Safari. 1800-998-558; wildlifesafari.com.au
when to go
The best time to view Victoria Falls is at the end of the rainy season, from March to May, when they are at their most impressive. The Devil’s Pool is only open during the dry season when water levels are sufficiently low, usually from September to December.
where to stay
The Royal Livingstone Hotel has 173 rooms set in handsome colonial villas with private verandahs overlooking the Zambezi River. Don’t miss out on enjoying a drink on the Sun Deck, offering a breathtaking glimpse of the falls. 260-21/332-1122; royal-livingstone-hotel.com or suninternational.com.
what to do
• The Dinner Experience on the Royal Livingstone Express includes a five-course meal and selected beverages for around AU$175.
• The Flight of Angels helicopter trip or a micro-light flight over Victoria Falls costs AU$135 for 15 minutes.
• The excursion to Livingstone costs AU$37 and includes a guided tour around town with an optional stop at the David Livingstone Museum.
• A sunset cruise on the African Queen costs AU$60 and includes snacks
and drinks.
• Lunch on Livingstone Island costs around AU$125, including lunch and swimming in the Devil’s Pool.
further information
For additional details about Livingstone and Victoria Falls, contact Zambia Tourism. zambiatourism.com
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