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bright lights, big city hong kong
Published in the January-March 2011 issue.
Asia’s most glamorous city is home to a fascinating mix of hotels, restaurants, buildings and shops. Read on for our picks on what to see and do and where to sleep in this bustling metropolis.
When Britain defeated China in the First Opium War, Hong Kong was little more than a collection of fishing villages. It was signed over to the British in the Treaty of Nanking on August 29, 1842.
Hong Kong returned to Chinese sovereignty on July 1, 1997, as a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic. This arrangement allowed Hong Kong to enjoy a high degree of autonomy, retaining its capitalist system, independent judiciary and rule of law, free trade and freedom of speech.
Today, Hong Kong boasts one of the world’s highest GDPs per capita and the largest number of skyscrapers in the world (almost double that of New York). It’s also one of the most densely populated areas on the planet, with seven million residents sharing just 1,100 square kilometres of land.
Within 150 years, Hong Kong – meaning “fragrant harbour” – has gone from being an inaccessible mountainous region to a thriving business and entertainment hub, luring visitors with its heady mix of East-meets-West offerings.
But don’t let the futuristic buildings fool you – 75 percent of Hong Kong is still undeveloped, and nearly 40 percent is protected for conservation and recreation purposes. It’s possible to walk for more than 100 kilometres across the New Territories (on the mainland and one of Hong Kong’s three main regions) and experience spectacular scenery and wildlife without encountering any of the city’s famous urban sprawl. And when you’re done, jump on a ferry and explore one of Hong Kong’s islands – there are more than 200 to choose from.
But at its heart, Hong Kong is a fast, exciting and eclectic city with something to suit every taste and budget. While its history may be steeped in British colonialism, its future is undoubtedly dictated by the emergence of China as a leading global economy. As a result, Hong Kong offers spectacular architecture, fabulous cusine, impressive skylines, endless shopping malls, and a host of events and attractions that draw people from all over the world.
Hong Kong is a shopper’s paradise, offering everything from night markets and street stalls to high-end boutiques in swanky shopping malls. And don’t forget the amazing food. Hong Kong boasts more than 11,000 restaurants, ranging from dim sum and seafood to meals in Michelin-starred restaurants. No wonder the city is considered one of the best in the world for wining and dining.
But don’t spend all your time sitting around a dinner table – Hong Kong offers a host of memorable tourist sites. Victoria Peak – the tallest point on Hong Kong Island – is arguably the city’s most popular attraction. Catch the funicular to the top where you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views over the city, harbour and mountains beyond. On Victoria Harbour, separating mainland Hong Kong from the Island, jump aboard the iconic Star Ferry to enjoy equally impressive views of the city – don’t miss the nightly “Symphony of Lights” show that sees harbour-front buildings lit up with a spectacular laser show. If you have the time, catch another ferry to Lantau Island where you’ll find attractions including the world’s tallest seated Buddha and, for the kids, Hong Kong Disneyland.
Yet many people visit Hong Kong not for the shopping or tourist attractions, but to attend the various events for which the city is famous. The Hong Kong Rugby Sevens (held over the last weekend in March) is probably the best-known event, while the Australia v New Zealand Bledisloe Cup clash in October has been added to sporting fixtures. The end of October sees the Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival and the Hong Kong Cricket Sixes (one of the longest-running Sixes tournaments in the world) consume the city. And during the horseracing season (September to June), a night at the races at either Happy Valley or Sha Tin is a thrilling experience.
When it comes to accommodation, there are more than 50,000 rooms available, ranging from youth hostels to luxurious hotels with all the trimmings. All the major hotel chains are represented and good deals can be found if you’re travelling outside of peak periods. Read on for tips on where to stay when you next visit Hong Kong. •
THE UPPER HOUSE
The Upper House is an oasis of tranquillity amid the frantic pace of Hong Kong. Natural materials, distinctive sculptures and original artwork all contribute to the intimate, inviting atmosphere of this luxury hotel, while a contemporary design and lavish amenities ensure an unmatched level of comfort.
With an enviable location on Hong Kong Island, the hotel features 117 guestrooms including 21 suites and two penthouses all conceptualized by wunderkind Andre Fu. The large, light-filled bedrooms are only outshone by the stunning bathrooms fitted with rain showers, deep soaking tubs and REN toiletries, packed neatly in a silk bag for you to take home. Other niceties include complimentary wireless Internet access and a selection of free minibar snacks and drinks. Starting from level 38, all rooms feature panoramic harbour or island views.
New York chef Gray Kunz has spent much of his career running some of the finest kitchens in Europe, Asia and America. He returned to Hong Kong to oversee the hotel’s Café Gray Deluxe, a lush dining room on the 49th floor. Kunz’s cuisine is rightly applauded; if you can steal yourself away from your plate you’ll be dazzled by the views out over Victoria Harbour.
A surprise awaits on level six – a secret garden and secluded lawn space for hotel guests and private events. Tables with ivory lacquered umbrellas offer shade while the comfy beanbags provide a place to chill out. Or just recline on the lush grassy lawn, something of a rarity in Hong Kong.
With its views of The Peak and historic Wan Chai district, the Sky Lounge on Level 49 is open throughout the day and evening. A large fireplace is the focal point of this warm and inviting lounge, designed with high ceilings and soft hues of green tea and mineral blue. Drinks and light snacks are available here from mid-morning, served in comfortable seating areas.
The hotel is located above Pacific Place, a premier commercial and retail complex at the very heart of Hong Kong Island. It is here that the who’s who meet, shop, dine, work and relax. The Upper House is within walking distance of Star Street, the Victoria Peak tram station, Lan Kwai Fong, Hollywood Road, the famed Star Ferry terminal and the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
how to book
Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong Island; 852/2918-1831; upperhouse.com
Harbour Grand Kowloon
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Set beside Victoria Harbour in Kowloon, arguably the most happening district in Hong Kong, the Harbour Grand Kowloon offers luxurious accommodation and diverse dining options alongside world-class meeting and business facilities.
The stylish hotel features 554 beautifully appointed rooms and suites, many of which boast outstanding harbour views. Upgrade to a Harbour Club room to enjoy access to the Harbour Club Lounge alongside a host of exclusive privileges.
Dining options abound with a choice of eight restaurants and bars offering everything from European cuisine to traditional Japanese barbecue, premium grills, classic Cantonese or a continental buffet. Featuring a newly extended VIP area, The Promenade restaurant is lined with floor-to-ceiling windows, marble flooring and plush seating creating an opulent, yet convivial, venue. Sit back and relax while seafood and other delicacies are prepared before your eyes at live cooking stations.
The fitness centre includes state-of-the-art machines, a solarium, saunas and steam baths.
how to book
20 Tak Fung St., Whampoa Garden, Hunghom, Kowloon; 852/2621-3188; harbourgrand.com/kowloon
Grand Hyatt Hong Kong
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Centrally located in the very heart of this vibrant and exciting city, the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong is one of the finest luxury hotels in Asia.
The hotel is just a five-minute drive to the business and shopping districts of Central, Pacific Place and Causeway Bay and is conveniently connected to the Convention and Exhibition Centre by a direct covered walkway. Planning to explore the city by boat? The Star Ferry terminal is within easy reach.
Alongside 553 rooms and suites, most of which command magnificent views of Victoria Harbour and Wan Chai district, the Grand Hyatt is acclaimed for its Plateau Spa, which offers an extensive range of body and facial treatments as well as spa accommodation in 23 rooms and suites. Other recreational facilities include a golf driving range, two floodlit tennis courts, two squash courts, an outdoor swimming pool, fitness studios and a 400-metre jogging track.
Reward your good work with a meal or drink in one of the hotel’s nine restaurants and bars including Grissini, specializing in authentic Italian fare, and One Harbour Road, serving unpretentious Cantonese cuisine at its finest.
how to book
1 Harbour Rd., Hong Kong; 852/2588-1234; hongkong.grand.hyatt.com
Metropark Hotel Wanchai Hong Kong
The four-star, 173-room Metropark Hotel Wan Chai recently underwent a multi-billion-dollar renovation, giving it a fresh new look and buzzing ambiance.
Located in the vibrant Wanchai district on Hong Kong Island, the hotel is ideally located for both business and leisure travellers and is within walking distance of the Wan Chai MTR Station as well as the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. When you’re not working or exploring the sites, trendy bars and restaurants await in the streets surrounding the hotel.
For those who wish to eat in, the Café De Metropark offers an excellent range of food, from delightful Western favourites to fresh Cantonese, served up in a relaxed dining room. End your evening with a drink in the smart bar, The Parlour, before retiring to your room, where niceties like flatscreen TVs and broadband Internet access await.
how to book
41–49 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, Hong Kong Island; 852/2861-1166; metroparkhotels.com
Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees
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The newly opened Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees is devoted to providing the ultimate hotel experience in Kowloon, with intimate rooms, luxurious suites, distinctive restaurants and buzzing bars. It’s all part of a unique approach that blends comfort, style and convenience.
The Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees has 702 rooms including 104 suites, ranging in size from 26 to 58 square metres. Facilities include outdoor swimming pools and an alfresco whirlpool alongside a state-of-the-art fitness centre and spa. The hotel’s restaurants and bar blend comfortable surroundings with tantalising menus offering everything from Asian specialties to exquisite international favourites.
While well located to access Kowloon’s many attractions, the hotel also runs a complimentary shuttle bus to and from the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station. The Mongkok shopping district is just 10 minutes away by car and Hong Kong Disneyland can be reached in 45 minutes.
how to book
199 Kowloon City Rd., Tokwawan, Kowloon; 852/2126-1988; harbour-plaza.com
The Mira
One of Hong Kong’s hippest boutique hotels, The Mira occupies a prime position in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon’s culinary, cultural, entertainment and shopping hub. Recently emerging from a US$65 million transformation, The Mira is at once design driven and down to earth, pairing cutting-edge room features with comforts including aromatherapy baths and high-thread-count linens.
The hotel’s 492 individually designed guestrooms, conceived by renowned lifestyle guru Colin Cowie, include 56 suites offering views over Kowloon Park or the hotel’s chic Terrace Garden Lounge. Book a room on the Club Floor and you’ll also receive access to the Mira Club Lounge where you can enjoy evening cocktails plus full concierge and business-support services.
The MiraSpa is a haven of rejuvenation, integrating a modern design with the warmth of traditional Asian hospitality. Set beside the hotel’s shimmering pool, the MiraSpa features nine treatment rooms including two luxurious VIP spa suites.
Dining choices are many and varied. Whisk offers modern French cuisine; Yamm is the place for an international buffet; Cuisine Cuisine serves delicate Cantonese dishes; and Coco is a stylish café – the chocolates here win awards for good reason.
how to book
118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; 852/2368-1111; themirahotel.com
Holiday Inn Golden Mile
Providing an oasis of calm amid Kowloon’s bustling streets, the Holiday Inn Golden Mile blends contemporary conveniences with all the luxuries of home. Situated in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui and adjacent to the MTR line that leads to Hong Kong’s major commercial and tourist districts, the hotel is an ideal base for both business and leisure travellers.
The hotel has 614 contemporary guest rooms including new Premier Rooms, designed for discerning travellers. Everything has been thought of – even mood lighting has been integrated into the design concept to suit the different needs of guests, whether working at the desk, reading or simply relaxing on the bed.
Other facilities at the Holiday Inn Golden Mile include a state-of-the-art health club and five applauded restaurants and bars. Cuisine on offer ranges from Western favourites to classic Chinese meals: Loong Yuen Cantonese Restaurant serves regional Chinese food, Osteria Ristorante Italiano serves authentic Italian fare and Bistro On The Mile has five daily buffets and an à la carte menu offering international favourites.
Guests can also take advantage of a wide variety of hotel facilities and amenities, including a rooftop swimming pool, sauna, business centre, plus secretarial and babysitting services.
how to book
50 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; 852/2315-1001; holidayinn.com/hongkong-gldn
Novotel Century Hong Kong
Located in the heart of Wan Chai, a bustling commercial and entertainment district on Hong Kong Island, the Novotel Century Hong Kong ticks all the boxes – providing convenience, comfort and value for money.
Equipped with a range of modern facilities including a health club, swimming pool, sauna and complimentary Internet access, the hotel guarantees guests an enjoyable stay. The hotel also offers guests a choice of restaurants serving everything from international favourites at Le Café to top quality Italian at Pepinos Cucina Italiana.
There are 511 rooms in total; standard rooms are spacious and include an ensuite bath or shower while executive suites feature water views, a separate workspace and access to a private Lounge area.
The Novotel Century Hong Kong is close to many popular local sites including the botanical gardens, the zoo, the Hong Kong Cultural Centre and the Hong Kong Stadium.
how to book
238 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai; 852/2598-8888; novotel.com
JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong
Offering everything from wedding receptions to corporate events, the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong is an ideal choice for leisure and business travellers.
Located in the Pacific Place complex on Hong Kong Island, the JW Marriott features spacious, modern rooms and the latest technological innovations including iPod docks and a Cisco TelePresence phone. There is also an outdoor swimming pool and a 24-hour health club offering massages, pedicures and even fitness counselling.
Guests can choose to dine at one of the hotel’s six award-winning restaurants including the Fish Bar & Grill, JW’s California steakhouse, Man Ho Chinese restaurant and the Q88 Wine Bar.
Within walking distance of the JW Marriott is The Peak funicular, taking guests to the top of Victoria Peak where they can enjoy panoramic views across Hong Kong Island, Victoria Harbour and even Kowloon on the other side of the water. Guests can also discover souvenirs, paintings and silk products at the nearby Stanley Markets or check out the giant Buddha at the Po Lin Monastery.
With 577 luxury rooms and Hong Kong’s largest ballroom, the JW Marriot Hotel Hong Kong has the capacity to cater to any need.
how to book
Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong Island; 852/2810-8366; jwmarriotthk.com
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TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
Qantas and Cathay Pacific operate regular flights from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth to Hong Kong. Cathay also operates flights from Adelaide and Cairns. Virgin Atlantic flies between Sydney and Hong Kong.
• Cathay Pacific. 131–747; cathaypacific.com
• Qantas. 131-313; qantas.com
• Virgin Atlantic. 1300 727 340; virgin-atlantic.com
when to go
Hong Kong is a year-round destination, although the most popular time to visit is from the middle of September to the end of February when the weather is cooler.
further information
For travel advice contact the Hong Kong Tourism Board. 1300-886-610; discoverhongkong.com
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