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hong kong for a song
By Sheriden Rhodes.
Published in the July-September 2011 issue.
Hong Kong has long been a paradise for retail therapy. Now, a collection of boutiques and malls is cementing the city’s place in the global shopping spotlight.
From shiny new malls, chic boutiques, traditional markets and themed shopping districts, there’s not much you can’t find, and buy, in Hong Kong. Aside from the dizzying diversity of products on offer, the city lures shopaholics with its absence of sales tax (VAT), compact size – which means you can zip between malls and markets on the excellent transport system – and extended trading hours. The sheer volume of retail offerings can become overwhelming for the uninitiated, so make the time to stop at a Chinese teahouse, eat at local dim sum restaurants or indulge in a massage (or martini) over the course of your expedition.
There are several notable shopping hot spots in Hong Kong. On Hong Kong Island, the perennially popular Causeway Bay, Central, Hollywood Road and Wanchai districts are some of the better-known ones. On the other side of Victoria Harbour, new life has recently been injected into Kowloon and its famous Nathan Road strip, which reputedly has the largest concentration of shops in greater China.
A string of new mega-malls are upping the spending ante, including The One, overlooking Tsim Sha Tsui on Nathan Road at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula. The building soars 29 storeys high and overflows with noteworthy retail and dining offerings. More than 200 fashion and lifestyle stores rub shoulders with entertainment, fine dining and casual eateries over 37,200 square metres of space.
Also on Nathan Road, iSQUARE is not just about shopping – the 31-storey building is also popular for its ever-changing digital art displays. Look out for the massive G-Tox Concept Store on level four, offering more than 350 square metres of streetwear and lifestyle brands, and Zume’s flagship boutique on level two where you’ll find hip and traditional cashmere for men, women and children. Directly above on the third level, Vietnamese restaurant chain Pho 24 dishes up steaming bowls of Vietnamese soup and spring rolls for those in need of a pit stop.
Nearby, on Hanoi Road, the quirky K11 touts itself as the world’s first “art mall.” Retail whizz Adrian Cheng spent more than AU$2.36 million on a permanent collection of 13 artworks created by up-and-coming local artists including Lee Chin-Fai, Man Fung Yi and Kum Chi Keung, who contributed a dramatic installation of flying birds – appropriately, carrying handbags. Make use of the mall’s iPhone application, which takes you on a virtual tour of the centre’s attractions.
Adjoining the Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, K11 is home to some 100 shops from the likes of Tiffany and Co, Omega and the world’s first concept store from Chinese jeweller Chow Tai Fook. For fashion and accessories, there’s Hong Kong’s own D-mop, the hip Juicy Girl, Miss Sixty, fun Italian fashion label mi-tu, Y-3, Cour Carré and Biba, or check out the range of Italian homewares at the K11 Design Store on level one.
In West Kowloon, Elements mall is housed within Hong Kong’s tallest building (the world’s fourth tallest), which also features just-opened The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, boasting the world’s highest guest rooms, swimming pool and bar. Name a luxury brand and chances are you’ll find it within this vast retail Mecca, designed in zones to reflect the five Chinese elements: fire, water, wood, earth and metal. Gucci, Prada, Armani, Hermès, Jimmy Choo and Louis Vuitton are all here, but for those without a Gold Amex, there is Zara, H&M and Juicy Couture. There’s also Shanghai Tang, if you want to get a slinky qipao custom-made or simply pick up the brand’s ready-to-wear Chinese-styled fashions and homewares. If the kilometres of squeaky polished flooring get too much, catch a movie or a concert, or take a twirl around the huge ice-skating rink in Element’s Fire Zone.
If mega-malls are not your thing, the 1881 Heritage area in Tsim Sha Tsui offers a taste of Hong Kong’s history as well as high-end shopping. Developed on the former site of the Marine Police Headquarters, the precinct is home to one of the city’s most interesting boutique hotels – Hullett House – alongside stores showcasing designer Vivienne Tam’s east-meets-west collection and Chinese-chic fashions at yet another Shanghai Tang outlet. Visit the flagship store from Emperor Watch and Jewellery, lust after the gorgeous ensembles and accessories at Japanese Kinji, or pick up one of Australian jeweller Paspaley’s beautiful pearl creations. Afterwards, experience a slice of old Hong Kong at Stables Grill restaurant, occupying the original Marine Police stables at Hullett House, or try robatayaki cuisine in the dimly lit Busy Suzie, opened by Gilbert Yeung of Hong Kong’s dragon-i club fame.
If you’re after an authentic Cantonese experience to break up your retail splurge, catch a cab to Tim Ho Wan in the Mongkok district. It may be small but what this restaurant lacks in size, it more than makes up for in substance – in fact, the eatery has become one of the hottest meal tickets in town since being dubbed the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant. Grab a ticket and then explore the Ladies Market nearby while you wait for your table to become available: expect a two-hour delay. When you’re finally seated, waiters will whisk around mouthwatering platters of crispy char sui bao (pork buns), cheung fun (steamed rice-noodle rolls with pork liver) and translucent steamed prawn dumplings.
Alternatively, hop on a ferry and head over to Central on Hong Kong Island. Sample local tea culture at the calming Leaf Tea Boutique before jumping onto one of Hong Kong’s rattling trams. It’s only a few stops to Johnston Road in Wanchai, where you’ll find stylish homewares store Ovo Studio, packed with treasures from around the world as well as custom-made pieces from a group of young Hong Kong designers.
Nearby, Star Street is also worth a browse for interesting local furniture and handicraft, while Sun Street is where you’ll find the boutique of Hong Kong lawyer-turned-fashion-designer Sonjia Norman – her luxe one-of-a-kind creations are crafted from sumptuous silk velvets and incorporate antique embroidery, fine cotton and lace. Also in the neighbourhood is The Pawn gastropub, part of a restored row of colonial-era shophouses that once housed a (you guessed it) pawnshop. Order a well-earned cocktail, head out on the narrow terrace and soak up the clatter of the bustling neighbourhood below. •
Photography by Sheriden Rhodes and courtesy of the HKTB.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
Cathay Pacific operates multiple daily flights between Australian capital cities and Hong Kong. 131-747; cathaypacific.com.au
when to go
Hong Kong is a year-round destination, although the most popular time to visit is from the middle of September to the end of February, when the weather is cooler.
where to stay
• Grand Hyatt. 852/2588-1234; hongkong.grand.hyatt.com
• Harbour Plaza 8°. 852/2126-1988; harbour-plaza.com
• Hullett House. 852/3988-0000; hulletthouse.com
• Langham Kowlon. 852/2375-1133; hongkong.langhamhotels.com
• The Novotel Nathan Road, Kowloon. 852/3965-8888; novotel.com
• The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong. 852/2263-2263; ritzcarlton.com
• The Royal Garden. 852/2721-5215; rghk.com.hk
• Upper House. 852/3968-1111; upperhouse.com
where to shop
• 1881 Heritage. 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; 1881heritage.com
• Elements. 1 Austin Rd. West, Tsim Sha Tsui; elementshk.com
• K11. 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; k11concepts.com
• The ONE. 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; the-one.hk
• Ovo Studio. 60 Johnston Rd., Wanchai; ovostudio.com.hk
• Sonija. 2 Sun St., Wanchai; sonjiaonline.com
where to eat
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Busy Suzie. 852/2369-0077; busysuzie.com
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Leaf Tea Boutique. 852/2543-3028; leafteaboutique.com
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The Pawn. 852/2866-3444;
thepawn.com.hk
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Tim Ho Wan. Shop 8, Taui Yuen Mansion Phase 2, 2-20 Kwong Wa St., Mongkok, Kowloon; 852/2332-2896.
further information
For more information, contact the Hong Kong Tourism Board. 1300-886-610; discoverhongkong.com
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