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islands of plenty
By Lance Richardson
Published in the October-December issue.
America’s island state might be best known for its surf breaks and beachside bliss but if the locals have anything to do with it, food is coming firmly into focus.
When I walk into the lobby decorated in breezy off-white tones and orchids, I feel as if I’ve been transported to South Beach or the Hamptons. At 5 p.m. daily, the bookcase lining a wall here revolves to reveal a hidden room sporting oversized sofas and some seriously expensive cocktails for the glitterati. If hotels are intended to give guests a sense of place by exuding the essence of their location, then where am I?
The giveaway is in the details: a ukulele and sarongs in every room, a reception desk made using the same materials as a surfboard. If that doesn’t give my location away, the art installation in the lobby surely will – crafted by Herbie Fletcher, the piece is a collection of fragments from surfboards once belonging to the likes of Kelly Slater, broken in Hawaiian surf competitions.
Despite its seemingly schizophrenic aesthetic, new hotel The Modern Honolulu actually nods to its location better than you’d think. Hawaii – the youngest state in America and comprised of eight main islands – is one of the most diverse destinations you’ll come across. In the middle of the Pacific Ocean, approximately equidistant from the U.S. and Asia, Hawaii is a place where the world’s cultures have washed ashore and taken root and now are familiarly intertwined with local tradition.
With such a melange of identities floating about, the prospect of understanding the real Hawaii can seem like a daunting challenge. Arguably the best way to peel away the state’s layers is by heading straight to its restaurants.
My first stop is The Modern Honolulu’s on-site dining room, a sprawling space decorated with enormous seashells entombed in glass boxes overhead. This is Morimoto Waikiki and my first taste of Japan’s culinary influence on Hawaii.
Masaharu Morimoto is a household name, thanks to his appearance on hit TV show Iron Chef, and his latest restaurant adds superb cuisine to an already thriving round-up of offerings from the East. (Down the road, for example, is an incarnation of Nobu, replete with a full-service sushi bar.) Though much of Morimoto’s menu is traditional Japanese with a Western twist, the infectious fusion of Hawaii’s character is immediately apparent through dishes such as the poke, a salad of cubed sashimi combining local fish with bocconcini, avocado wasabi sorbet and dashi foam. To me, the experience seems to channel Oahu’s okazuyas, eateries where customers can mix and match ethnic foods on the spot.
Wanting to see the full extent of the Japanese influence on Hawaii and keen to explore beyond the urban trappings of Waikiki Beach, I drive through the centre of Oahu to the surfing hotspot of the North Shore. If you’ve ever received a postcard from Hawaii, it probably depicted this part of the state – surfers and dilapidated shacks, big waves and white sand, and hula girls dancing on the dashboard of every pickup you pass. In the historic town of Haleiwa, just before you reach the first of the North Shore’s famous sandy strips, a nondescript building is framed by an impressive line of people out the door. This is Matsumoto, home to the “shave ice” that, once you notice it, seems to be being consumed by every second person you pass. For as little as US$2, you can walk away with a mountain of fine snow drizzled in coconut, green tea or white cake syrup. For a couple more dollars, service staff will add a helping of sweet beans to the bottom of the cone. Matsumoto’s is, I’m assured on more than one occasion, an essential stop for those visiting Oahu.
Around Haleiwa I find a lot more to eat than Japanese snacks, much of it sold from colourful food trucks. Forget seedy fast food – “lunch wagons” are an institution in this part of the world and sell everything from classic American hamburgers to Mexican tacos. A standout, I discover, is North Shore shrimp trucks such as Macky’s Sweet Shrimp, easy to spot for the enormous red prawn painted on the side. Generous servings of rice and lemon-pepper shrimp are plonked down on communal tables under a makeshift tent. For something more upmarket, Simply Ono in downtown Honolulu spins the plate lunch into a gourmet feast of furikake ahi and miniature quiche Lorraines.
For all its fusion fare, Hawaii’s traditional produce has flown, for the most part, under the radar – until now. With the support of local chefs, the Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC) organisation was established in recent years to highlight island produce: Hamakua tomatoes, gobo (burdock root), breadfruit, Kona abalone. There are several HRC restaurants on Oahu, including Chai’s Island Bistro and Chef Mavro.
Recognising, however, that Hawaii is more than just Oahu, I catch a short flight to the island of Kauai, popular in culinary circles for its edible flora and wild pigs. For the HRC experience, I make my way to Merriman’s, a “locavore” restaurant that claims to source 90 percent of its ingredients sustainably from the surrounding fields and oceans. The chef’s sesame-crusted opah and crispy mahi mahi are sublime fish dishes that showcase Polynesian cuisine at its finest. Those keen to take a slice of Hawaiian cuisine home with them can also attend a weekly cooking demonstration here.
At Kilohana Plantation – a sprawling estate home to an historic mansion – another farm-to-table restaurant makes the most of the island’s bountiful fresh produce. Stroll through the plantation sampling pineapples and papaya before pulling up a seat at 22° North, where beautifully presented dishes feature produce grown on the grounds.
Kauai also draws gourmands for its profusion of farmers’ markets, overflowing with the tropical colours of mangos, tree-ripened bananas and Kauai sunrise papayas. “Sunshine markets,” as they’re known, occur daily across the island, though a good bet is the one held at the Kilauea Neighborhood Center every Thursday. The Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei Market in Waipa, on the north side of the island, also sees local farmers gather to peddle their homegrown produce, as does the popular Saturday Farmers’ Market at the campus of Kapiolani Community College near Diamond Head, back on Oahu.
Almost confirming Hawaii’s rise to culinary fame, September saw the launch of the inaugural Hawaii Food & Wine Festival, founded to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the HRC movement. Promising an annual return, the event saw acclaimed international chefs descend on Oahu to showcase dishes inspired by the traditions of the Hawaiian islands. The kick-off dining event? An evening at Morimoto’s, of course. •
Photography by Lance Richardson and courtesy
of Hawaii Tourism.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
Hawaiian Airlines flies daily from Sydney to Honolulu on Oahu. 1300-669-106; hawaiianairlines.com.au
getting around
From Honolulu, Haleiwa Town and the North Shore beaches are less than an hour’s drive through the centre of Oahu. Hawaiian Airlines offers dozens of daily flights to the state’s other islands, including Kauai.
Insight Vacations now offers 10- and 12-day Gold tours around Hawaii. The just-launched “Hawaiian Dreams” series take you to the Big Island and Kuai, among other destinations, enjoying luxurious accommodations and fine restaurants along the way. insightvacations.com.au
when to go
Hawaii is good year-round, though the best weather is often found in April, May, September and October. The next Hawaii Food & Wine Festival will be held in late September, 2012. hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com
where to stay
• Aqua Hotels & Resorts. 1-808/924-6543; aquaresorts.com
• Aston Hotels and Resorts. 1-808/924-2924;
astonhotels.com
• Hilton Hawaiian Village 1-808/949-4321; hiltonhawaiianvillage.com
• Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort and Spa.
1-808/923-1234; Waikiki.hyatt.com
• The Modern Honolulu. 1-808/924-6543; aquaresorts.com
• Turtle Bay Resort. 1-808/293-6000; turtlebayresort.com
where to eat
• 22° North. 3-2087 Kaumualii Highway; 1-808/245-9593;
22northkauai.com
• Chai’s Island Bistro. 1 Aloha Tower Dve.; 1-808/585-0011; chaisislandbistro.com
• Chef Mavro Honolulu. 1,969 South King St.; 1-808/944-4714; chefmavro.com
• Macky’s Sweet Shrimp Truck. Near 66-632 Kamehameha Highway; 1-808/780-1071.
• Matsumoto. 66-087 Kamehameha Hwy; 1-808/637-4827; matsumotoshaveice.com
• Merriman’s Kuai. 2,829 Ala Kalanikaumaka Koloa; 1-808/742-8385; merrimanshawaii.com
• Morimoto Waikiki. 1,775 Ala Moana Bvd.; 1-808/943-5900; morimotowaikiki.com
• Nobu Waikiki. 2,233 Helumoa Rd.; 1-808/237-6999; noburestaurants.com
• Simply Ono. 2,337 North King St.; 1-808/591-8232; simplyono.com
further information
Contact the Hawaii Tourism Authority for tips on travelling
to the American island state. discoverhawaii.com.au
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