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fine fare
Published in the October-December 2009 issue.
Capital cities are often derided – but derision is unlikely to result from a foodie weekend in Wellington, reports Annabelle White.
Wellington is a serious foodie destination. Bring a big appetite – you are about to experience an array of terrific food and wine just within the city centre, and just outside at Martinborough. A local rumour circulates that there are more outlets serving good espresso coffee per head of the population in Wellington than there are in Paris – and it’s not difficult to believe this as you walk around. Everywhere, strong coffee aromas waft through the air.
Start your day at Caffe L’Affare in College Street, downtown. Enjoy a bit of friendly banter with the staff and they’ll make your coffee exactly the way you want it, no questions asked. Just around the corner, Havana also roasts its coffee on the premises. At night, the bar is like a quick trip to Havana, Cuba, without the jet lag – try a shot of Cuban rum to aid digestion.
Wellington is best enjoyed on foot: a series of one-way streets, and local drivers who approach city lanes like Italians on hot dates are good reasons to forgo the hire car till you venture out of town – to Petone, perhaps, for great Italian food, or to Karori Sanctuary, where you can walk off the dining excesses.
A number of rental car offices cluster near Courtenay Place, Wellington’s traffic and bar hub. While you’re there, check out The Catch Sushi Bar at Courtenay Place. The revolving sushi is super-fresh and expertly made. Expect to pay NZ$50 (AU$40) for two for soup, tea and so much sushi you’ll be rolling out afterwards. Try the deep-fried oysters and the shrimp sushi, both of which are superb.
Sweet Mother’s Kitchen, also on Courtenay Place, is a popular place for New Orleans type and Mexican offerings as well as coffee, and is open early to late. Perfect after a movie or show at one of the many theatres in the area: order a slice of home-baked pie or cake.
A few steps away is Majorbanks Street and here, on the corner, sits the Embassy Theatre, housing the Capitol Dining Room & Bar, an establishment so well regarded by locals that it’s often hard to get a table. The inexpensive two-course set lunch for NZ$19.50 (AU$15) is a great bargain and their Sunday brunch is well worth considering if your hotel buffet breakfasts don’t cut it.
Just a few metres away, you’ll find two great eateries right beside each other: The Ambeli and Café Bastille. The food at both is top-class: it’s little wonder both were both finalists in the much-coveted NZ Cuisine national restaurant of the year award.
At The Ambeli (Greek for ‘vineyard’), chef Sam Pope is passionate about serving simple food well – try his simple galette of Agria potatoes with Ortiz anchovies and capers, topped with fresh rocket– the earthy potato flavours, piquant capers and salty anchovies contrasting beautifully with the peppery greens and slightly sweet dressing and adding crunchy texture. At just NZ$18 (A$15) it’s a winner: Pope can’t take the item off the menu.
Another option for between-meal activity is to visit the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, where two cafés offer snacks and light meals and many of the exhibits are fun, interactive family experiences. History, culture, a waterfront view and a bustling atmosphere: this is a must-do activity for any visitor to the city.
Another super food strip is Cuba Mall. Once primarily a shopping precinct, it is now home to some excellent eateries. A rather amusing bucket water feature used to be the landmark of this pedestrian zone: now, top restaurants are its major drawcard.
At the top of Cuba Street, my favourite spot for a quick, inexpensive bite is Rasa Malaysia Restaurant. Here, a masala dosai or a chicken murtabak runs to NZ$15.50 (AU$12.30) or less; the service is friendly and fast; it’s open till late and worth a visit.
Over the road, a little piece of France is found in the bakery and café at Simply Paris. Here, a slice of quiche or a baguette will not disappoint; Wellington has a strong tradition of excellent French bakeries.
Just a few steps away is Logan Brown where, on a recent promotion, a two-course lunch with Villa Maria wines was only NZ$49.50 (AU$39). The main, created by head chef Shaun Clouston, was fresh monkfish wrapped in pancetta with soft organic polenta and tomato fondue; dessert was a delicious spiced golden raisin tart with maple and vanilla parfait. Stellar food, an excellent wine list and the atmosphere of an old bank – together, they’re inspired. Save money and opt for the bistro menu at lunch or for pre–theatre dining.
Just a few more steps away, heading towards the sea, you have Floriditas. It is so busy from morning to night, it can be difficult to get a table, but it’s worth trying. Simple bistro meals at NZ$24 (AU$19) include the likes of char-grilled, aged sirloin steak with roasted oyster mushrooms. You’ll be won over by the good food and open atmosphere, the homemade jams, breads, cakes and puddings – and the fact that the owners are serious about good sausages and bacon for breakfast.
Another block away and closer to the cascading bucket water feature on Cuba Street, you will find award-winning Matterhorn. In operation since 1963, initially as a coffee bar and Swiss-style eatery, it is now a well-respected restaurant and cocktail bar with a committed team. The food is exquisite and the front-of-house staff fun and knowledgeable.
A great place for drinks and tapas (including complimentary suckling pig when you order mojitos on Wednesday nights) is Osteria del Toro: great décor and a new city hot-spot.
A trip out to Petone for pasta at La Bella Italia is a delight – if you want the same pasta in a more central location, there’s a small sister eatery, La Bella Italia Bambina.
Wellington’s Sunday markets – the Harbourside Market, with fresh fruit and vegetables and the City Market, right next door to each other in The Atrium, Chaffers Dock – are within a few metres of Te Papa Tongarewa. The City Market is full of gourmet treats, including bakery items from as far away as Greytown and pristine seafood from the South Island. It has great atmosphere, and fantastic freshly shucked oysters.
A drive over the hills to Martinborough is a rewarding daytrip. Book a dinner at Wendy Campbell’s The French Bistro and stop off at Vynfields boutique winery, bar and cafe for a bowl of organic vegetable soup.
Start your serious wine appreciation here, with Vynfields’ organic range, and next-door at Alana Estate: its selection makes an interesting comparison. Make a lunch stop at Tirohana Estate and try the pumpkin spiced bread-and-butter pudding. The winemaker here plays music to the grapes – you be the judge as to results.
No trip to the area would be complete without a tasting at Martinborough Vineyard. A friendly cellar door team there will welcome you and answer any questions.
Just one question will be uppermost in your mind as you wind your way back over the hills: when can we come back, rent a small cottage and stay longer, so as to have time to fully appreciate the region’s array of gourmet treats? •
Photography by Annabelle White and Positively Wellington Tourism.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
getting around
where to eat
- Alana Estate, Puruatanga Rd, Martinborough, phone +64 6 306 9784 or visit www.alana.co.nz
- The Ambeli, 18 Majorbanks Street, Mt Victoria, phone + 64 4 385 7577 or visit www.theambeli.co.nz
- Cafe Bastille, 16 Majorbanks Street, Mt Victoria, phone +64 4 382 9559 or visit www.bastille.co.nz
- Capitol Dining Room and Bar, Embassy Theatre, Kent Terrace, phone +64 4 384 2855 or visit www.capitolrestaurant.co.nz
- Caffe L’affare, 27 College Street, phone +64 4 385 9748 or visit www.cafelaffare.co.nz
- The Catch Sushi Bar, 48 Courtenay Place, phone +64 4 801 9352.
- Floriditas Café & Restaurant, 161 Cuba Street, phone +64 4 381 2212 or visit www.floriditas.co.nz
- Logan Brown, cnr Cuba and Vivian Streets, phone +64 4 801 5114 or visit www.loganbrown.co.nz
- Martinborough Vineyard, Princess St, Martinborough, phone +64 6 306 9955 or visit www.martinborough-vineyard.co.nz
- Matterhorn, 106 Cuba St, phone +64 4 384 8918 or visit www.matterhorn.co.nz
- La Bella Italia La Bambina, 101 The Terrace, phone +64 4 499 1155 or visit www.labellaitalia.co.nz
- Te Papa Tongarewa, 55 Cable St, phone +64 4 381 7000 or visit www.tepapa.govt.nz
- Rasa Malaysia Restaurant, 200 Cuba Street, phone +64 4 384 7088.
- Simply Paris, 181 Cuba Street, phone +64 4 801 5486.
- Sweet Mother’s Kitchen, 5 Courtenay Place, phone + 64 4 385 4444 or visit www.sweetmotherskitchen.co.nz
- Tirohana Estate, Puruatanga Road, Martinborough, phone +64 6 306 9933 or visit www.tirohanaestate.com
- Vynfields, Puruatanga Rd, Martinborough, phone +64 6 306 9901 or visit www.vynfields.com
- Wendy Campbell’s The French Bistro, 3 Kitchener St, Martinborough, phone +64 6 306 8863.
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