By Ian Lloyd Neubauer
Published in the April-June 2012 issue.

Indonesia’s resort isle delivers on all the tourist expectations of a tropical holiday: sandy beaches, luxurious resorts, great shopping and hip restaurants. But there’s more to this magical destination than meets the eye.  


If you thought Bali was all about surfing and nightlife, think again. From the ancient Hindu temples and freshwater lakes of the interior to the little-visited dive sites and cloud-ringed mountains of the east coast, Bali offers one of the most diverse travel experiences imaginable. Here, the lowdown on six of the island’s most exciting regions.

Seminyak
There are few tourist precincts in Southeast Asia that have seen more development in recent years than Seminyak on Bali’s west coast. And while parallels can be drawn to the rampant overdevelopment that saw the former fishing village of Kuta turned into a kitschy beachside strip, Seminyak is decidedly more upmarket, with an eclectic mix of high-end bars, restaurants and boutiques.

The action revolves around Laksmana and Petitenget streets, where you’ll find world-class fashion boutiques Blue Glue, Religion, Sabbatha and Shaman. Joining their ranks is Horn Emporium, the interior of which was designed by Sydney style icon Alex Zabotto-Bentley, who also played a hand in creating the strip’s newest bistro, Petitenget Restaurant, which opened in March.

For Italian-inspired seafood and pasta head to beachside La Lucciola for lunch, with dinner at Sardine, which donates the rice grown in paddies surrounding it to an orphanage in Denpasar. Nearby at Sarong, inspired Pan-Asian fare – Indonesian, Thai, Vietnamese and Indian – is dished up in a breezy space. Also in the neighbourhood, Métis’ sprawling open-air dining room draws crowds with its nouvelle French-Mediterranean cuisine and views over fields of rice. And no visit to Seminyak would be complete without a sunset drink at Ku De Ta, the island’s cult beachfront nightspot.

Canggu
Less than half an hour’s drive north of Seminyak but a million metaphorical miles away, Canggu is a collection of villages on Bali’s mid-west coast. Here, particoloured checkerboard rice paddies are interspersed with temples, luxury villas and traditional Balinese homes, flanked on one side by beaches that offer up some of the island’s best surf.

On Sunday nights, check out the live music sessions at Deus Ex Machina, Bali’s custom-motorbike dealership, art gallery, retail outlet and restaurant/bar on Jalan Batu Mejan. Two minutes down the road is Echo Beach, a surfing mecca where perfectly rounded waves pound the shoreline. For inexpensive beer, tapas and salads, check out the seafront restaurant/bar named after the beach, or follow the locals to Sticky Fingers for Canggu’s best pizzas, sandwiches, coffee and juices.

If it’s surfing lessons you’re after, head to The Chillhouse on Jalan Kubu Manyar, with dance lessons offered at Lala Studios and art classes at the House of Art – all on the same road. For horse riding along the beach, contact the Umalas Equestrian Resort in the south or, for a cultural experience, visit Tanah Lot in Canggu’s far north: a rocky outcrop a few metres offshore topped with a 500-year-old relic, one of Bali’s most important Hindu temples.

The Bukit Peninsula
While many of Bali’s beaches are dark grey or black, those lining the Bukit Peninsula south of the airport offer golden and sugar-white sand. Uluwatu, on Bali’s southmost tip, is home to a small Hindu temple, perched on sharp cliffs dropping down to the Indian Ocean.

Padang-Padang beach is a surfers’ paradise; Balangan and Nammos are less about the swells and more about the sand, with the latter home to Karma Kandara Resort’s exclusive beach club. Accessed via a private inclinator, the club’s raised bamboo deck is a great place on which to enjoy a Mediterranean-style meal or an alfresco massage, performed by therapists from the hotel’s serene spa.

Farther up the west coast of the peninsula, Jimbaran Bay has a calm swimming beach that turns into a seafood smorgasbord at night, when local restaurants set up clusters of tables on the sand.

Also in the neighbourhood is Ayana Resort and Spa, a sprawling complex that’s home to some superb restaurants and the acclaimed Rock Bar. Set at the bottom of a limestone cliff overlooking the ocean, this open-air lounge unites tropical cocktails, tapas and smooth tunes to rock-star effect.

On the eastern side of the Bukit Peninsula, Nusa Dua boasts intricately manicured gardens, spotlessly clean beaches, lines of five-star resorts and the little-visited Museum Pasifika. Boasting 11 pavilions laden with paintings by local and international artists who travelled through Indonesia plus sculptures and artefacts from Polynesia and beyond, the museum may well be Bali’s best-kept secret.

Nearby is popular restaurant Bumbu Bali, dishing up authentic Balinese curries and satays in a semi-open dining room where the owners also host Indonesian cooking classes.

Ubud
Sandwiched between the Petanu, Wos and Ayung Rivers in a velvet-green valley in south-central Bali, Ubud and its 13 satellite villages are the spiritual and cultural heart of the island. The town overflows with museums and galleries including Neka Art Museum, home to the world’s largest collection of antique keris (traditional Indonesian daggers), and Blanco Renaissance, dedicated to Spanish artist Antonio Blanco.

For handmade arts and crafts, start your shopping at the Pasar Seni – the Central or Art Market – on Jalan Raya Ubud (arrive before 8 a.m. to see it operating as traditional “wet” market), then hire a bike and pedal to nearby Singakerta village for stone and Mas for wood carvings, Celuk for silver and Batuan for paintings.

History buffs will appreciate Ubud’s numerous Hindu temples, from the lotus pond-ensconced Pura Saraswati to the Gunung Kawi archaeological park, half an hour out of town, where you’ll see stone tombs carved out of rock-faces and dedicated to Ubud’s royal family.

Refuel at Sari Organic, set amid rice fields and popular for its healthy vegetarian fare and fresh juices. Or, for a real treat, book a six-course degustation menu with matching wines at Mozaic. Billed by the Miele Guide as the best restaurant in Indonesia and with several Wine Spectator awards, Mozaic also offers French-Balinese fusion cooking classes in its custom-built kitchen.

Much more casual but just as tasty is Naughty Nuri’s Warung, a hole-in-the-wall eatery dishing up platters of pork ribs and strong martinis – get here early or be prepared to queue for a table.

The East Coast
On Bali’s southeast coast, Candidasa is a tranquil fishing village, somewhat reminiscent of Kuta in the ’70s. Diving and snorkelling are the drawcards here, with a number of reputable companies operating from the main drag.

Alam Asmara Dive Resort offers PADI-accredited dive courses and daytrips to sites such as the Blue Lagoon (near Padang Bai), White Sand Beach (Pasir Putih) and the wreck of the USAT Liberty in nearby Tulamben. Feeling peckish? With sweeping views of Nusa Peninda island, Candidasa’s Rendezvous Restaurant dishes up ocean-fresh seafood – think pan-seared mahi-mahi or lobster with Balinese herb sauce.

A 30-minute drive to the north is the water palace of Tirtagangga. Built by the King of Karangasem in 1948 near a natural spring under the gaze of Mount Agung, Bali’s highest and holiest peak, Tirtagangga is surrounded by emerald-green rice fields and small villages.

Around 30 minutes’ drive north again, on the easternmost tip of the island, lies Amed, a collection of small fishing villages occupying half-moon bays lined with palm trees. Don’t miss a sunrise here, when hundreds of triangular-sailed fishing boats drift to shore, loaded with the morning’s catch.  

The Northern Lakes
Boasting three large freshwater lakes surrounded by rainforest crawling with langur monkeys, Bali’s northern reaches are popular for their nature-based and cultural activities.

Set in Munduk, a town perched on an eagle’s-nest precipice not far from the north coast, Puri Alam Bali Bungalows offers courses in weaving, bamboo instrument-making, coffee processing and Indonesian language as well as Balinese tattoo workshops.

North Bali Nature, also in Munduk, organises walking tours that take in coffee, tea, avocado and spice plantations as well as a number of local waterfalls and Pura Bale Agung temple.

To heal your weary bones at the end of the day, visit O’O Massage for a shiatsu or hot-stone rubdown. Farther east, on the banks of Lake Bratan, is Bedugul, home to Bali’s largest botanical garden, Kebun Raya Eka Karya, and the Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club, which bills itself as the highest mountain golf course in Indonesia and offers 18 holes on a lush layout occupying an extinct volcanic crater. •

Photography by Ian Neubauer and courtesy of respective establishments.


TRAVEL FACTS

getting there
Virgin Australia flies from Adelaide, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth to Bali daily. Garuda Air operates daily services from Melbourne, Sydney and Perth to Bali, and AirAsia flies from Melbourne to Bali via Jakarta, Sydney to Bali via KL and direct to Bali from Perth and the Gold Coast.
• AirAsia. 1300-760-330; airasia.com
• Garuda Indonesia. 62-21/2351-9999; garuda-indonesia.com
• Virgin Australia. 136-789; virginaustralia.com.au

getting around
Creative Holidays can help book tours and discounted hotel rooms in Bali and offers an unbeatable VIP Arrival service, which expresses the immigration and customs process. creativeholidays.com

when to go
It’s always hot in Bali. April to October is the best time to visit, as there’s less chance of rain.

where to eat
• Bumbu Bali Restaurant and Cooking School. 62-361/774-502; balifoods.com
• Ku De Ta. 62-361/736-969; kudeta.net
• La Lucciola. 62-361/730-838.
• Métis. 62-361/473-7888; metisbali.com
• Mozaic. 62-361/975-768; mozaic-bali.com
• Naughty Nuri’s Warung. 62-361/977-547; naughtynurisbali.com
• Sardine. 62-361/843-6111; sardinebali.com
• Sari Organic (Bodag Maliah). 62-361/780-1839 or 972-087.
• Sarong. 62-361/737-809; sarongbali.com
• Sticky Fingers Cucina Italiana.
62-361/809-0903; stickyfingersbali.com

further information
The Indonesian and Balinese tourism boards can offer additional tips on travelling to the island: indonesia.travel and balitourismboard.org.



bedding down in bali

From dramatic cliff-top villas to exclusive seaside resorts and jungle-shrouded lodges, Bali’s accommodation offerings are hard to beat. Here, our favourite places to bed down, from Nusa Dua to the Bukit Peninsula and back to Seminyak.


Alila Villas Uluwatu
Perched atop limestone cliffs and with sweeping views over the Indian Ocean, the Alila Villas Uluwatu are located on the southern coast of Bali’s Bukit Peninsula.

The 84 pool villas feature sumptuous interiors blending contemporary style with Balinese accents. All accommodations have an open-plan design, where flat lava-rock roofs and bamboo ceilings allow the sea breeze to flow in, while from the bed to the bathtub, every view is open to the outdoors.

If you can drag yourself away, Spa Alila blends ancient Asian healing techniques with age-old beauty recipes featuring the curative benefits of fresh, natural ingredients. The spa also has a 24-hour gym alongside a 50-metre infinity swimming pool.

Dining is a real experience with The Warung restaurant presenting authentic Indonesian and Balinese cuisine; at Cire, headed by chef Stefan Szijta, you can enjoy contemporary western cuisine in a breezy dining room set 70 metres above sea level. Be sure to end your evening with cocktails in the hotel’s iconic pavilion, cantilevered over the ocean and offering some of the best views in Bali.

HOW TO BOOK
Jl. Belimbing Sari
Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu; 62-361/848-2166; alilahotels.com/uluwatu


The Legian, Bali
On the shores of Seminyak Beach, close to Bali’s hippest shops, restaurants and bars, The Legian is one of Asia’s most iconic resorts.

Sixty-eight sea-facing suites showcase the talent of Indonesian designer Jaya Ibrahim. Each room has been crafted using natural fibre furniture and flooring and have white walls accented by original artwork and artefacts from around the archipelago.



Across the road, a series of 11 exclusive one- and three-bedroom villas comprise The Club at the Legian and offer private plunge pools set in courtyard gardens, round-the-clock butler service and complimentary minibar snacks, among other luxuries.

When it comes to dining, order from the extensive room service menu for a private and intimate meal. Or, head to the main beachfront restaurant, pool bar or Ocean Bar for signature drinks like the Legian Mojito or jamu, a healthy Balinese herbal concoction.

Spa treatments are available in two single and three couples’ suites where intuitive therapists deliver timeless Balinese healing traditions and innovative wellness treatments. Steam and sauna rooms, as well as complimentary morning yoga four times a week, are also available.

Note: The Legian Bali will be undergoing renovation works to expand its beachfront swimming pool and public facilities until July. All guests will be accommodated away from the renovation area.

HOW TO BOOK
Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak Beach; 62-361/730-622; ghmhotels.com


AYANA Resort and Spa, Bali
One of Bali’s most iconic resorts, Ayana enjoys a coveted location in Jimbaran, set on limestone cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. Sprawling across 77 hectares of landscaped gardens, the property stands out for its eclectic mix of accommodations, from stylish rooms and suites to 78 villas, each impeccably designed with water views, private gardens and plunge pools.



Inside, the rooms feature the latest modern comforts complemented by Indonesian carvings, sculptures, paintings and artefacts to create a unique sense of place.

Ayana offers almost as much diversity in its on-site diversions as it does its accommodations: there are two lavish oceanfront spas, a saltwater Ocean Beach Pool, four freshwater swimming pools, an 18-hole putting course and 12 exceptional restaurants and bars.

The resort’s signature restaurant, Dava, draws crowds from across the island with its modern French-Asian cuisine prepared by award-winning Singaporean chef, Jusman So. In addition to an á la carte menu, Dava is popular for its creative degustation meals, served in a sleek lotus-shaped space perched next to a “floating” garden.

Another highlight is the resort’s Rock Bar, set on natural rocks jutting out over the Indian Ocean. The alfresco nightspot is the place to watch the sun set over Bali. There are themed cocktails and canapés and live music spun from a DJ booth carved into the cliff-face.

HOW TO BOOK
Jimbaran Bay; 62-361/702-222; ayanaresort.com


W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak
One of the island’s newest – not to mention most dramatic – resorts, the W Retreat & Spa Bali sits beachside in Seminyak, offering custom-designed contemporary luxury matched with signature W flair.

Vibrant Balinese scenes and colours are artistically reinterpreted in 237 Retreats and Villas, the former overlooking the ocean and the latter set in private courtyards with plunge pools. Enjoy the trademark W bed, custom-made furnishings, separate bathtubs and complimentary high-speed Internet access alongside Bliss amenities and seriously indulgent minibar snacks.

The Away Spa is open 24 hours and provides an extravagant spread of indoor treatment areas for total privacy and complete renewal. There are three single treatment rooms with meditation platforms, two double treatment rooms with vitality baths, and two spa suites with wet and dry treatment areas availible as well as three different treatment menus.

For the energetic, there’s a state-of-the-art fitness centre and lagoon-style saltwater swimming pool. For those who prefer eating over cardio, Starfish Bloo affords views over the Indian Ocean and serves up award-winning pan-Asian cuisine while in Fire, an open-plan kitchen sets the scene for bustling meals around the clock. Be sure to stop past WooBar to enjoy creative cocktails while tapping your toes to tunes spun by an eclectic roster of DJs.

HOW TO BOOK
Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak; 62-361/473-8106; starwoodhotels.com


Grand Hyatt Bali
This stunning resort in Nusa Dua was conceived as a traditional water palace with lakes, landscaped gardens and five pools surrounding its low-rise, Balinese-style buildings.

The Grand Hyatt offers 648 luxurious rooms and suites in four “villages,” all offering the services of a world-class hotel paired with the relaxing tranquillity of a secluded beach resort.

Facilities include The Bay Club Fitness and Health Centre, featuring a fully equipped gymnasium, an aerobics room, two air-conditioned squash courts, a whirlpool bath, pool, steam room, sauna and a plunge bath. There’s also a 120-metre lagoon pool, an outdoor river pool with a 50-metre waterslide and a Balinese feature pool. Phew!

Kriya Spa offers authentic Balinese treatments within 24 luxurious spa villas. Eight dining options include The Watercourt, which serves up Balinese cuisine, and Salsa Verde, a poolside Italian restaurant overlooking the Indian Ocean.

HOW TO BOOK
Kawasan Wisata, Nusa Dua; 62-361/771-234; bali.grand.hyatt.com