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treasure islands
Published in the October-December 2010 issue.
A volcanic wonderland of limpid lagoons and mesmerising marine life, the Solomon Islands attract adventurers and sybarites alike, writes Melissa Rimac.
There’s a lot to love about the Solomon Islands, a bewildering filigree of around 1,000 isles, some scrunched into imposing saw-toothed mountains, while others are barely specks on the ocean. Yet each isle is dotted with gem-like, emerald-hued lagoons and swathed in lime-green jungle.
These Pacific Ocean islets, just east of Papua New Guinea, are remote and largely uninhabited, which means that apart from the occasional thatched house, there’s scant sign of human interference. And that’s a big part of the appeal of any visit here. In recent years, I’ve grown weary of vacuum-sealed “tropical pleasures,” sanitised resort compounds, nauseating muzak, glazed looks – the sheer sameness of so many island destinations. I’ve longed for a palm-studded getaway where the beaches aren’t raked and the culture hasn’t been bleached by global tourism. I found much more than I hoped for in the Solomon Islands.
More than 550,000 people are scattered across the Solomon’s archipelago, the majority calling the capital Honiara, on the island of Guadalcanal, home. There are very few roads here – those that do exist are for the most part unpaved – and a total absence of haggling or, for that matter, hassles of any sort.
Despite the prevalence of Christianity (around 97 percent of the population follow various Christian denominations), traditional life thrives in the Solomons. Sixty-three distinct languages and many local dialects are spoken and powerful regional identities prevail. This gives each island here a distinct flavour, with customs that are vibrantly different from those of its neighbours. With so many tempting options, the prospect of choosing one island as a base is not an easy task.
When planning my visit, I was tempted by the dramatic scenery and diverse marine life around Marovo Lagoon, the largest saltwater lagoon in the world and part of the Solomon’s Western Province. The live-aboard boat trips exploring the rarely visited Russell Islands in the Central Province also sounded appealing: azure waters packed with pelagics, traditional villages, white-sand beaches. Then there was the bevy of eco-chic accommodations such as Tavanipupu Private Island Resort, on its own island east of Honiara and popular for its luxurious hardwood-and-thatch villas encircled by tall palms, and Gizo, home to the second-largest town in the island nation and famed for its aquatic attractions, stunning mountain setting and fascinating villages.
Many flights into Honiara arrive in time to connect directly with outer-island flights, which means that it’s possible to be underwater ogling coral on the very afternoon you depart Australia. Glued to the window of a low-flying Twin Otter en route to the Western Province, I see deep volcanic calderas ringed by swathes of sand and crystal-clear lagoons. Schools of trevally shoot beneath a jetty as I make my way to my accommodation: the very private Sanbis Resort on lush Mbabanga Island, a short boat-ride from Gizo Island.
My bungalow – fashioned from hardwood, palm leaves and cane – is hemmed by a tangle of ancient trees, their horizontal trunks reaching out over the water. The Kolombangara volcano towers above me while schools of fish weave through coral below. I slide into the warm water, hoping to spot one of the dugongs that allegedly grace the sea-grass beds ringing the island.
Like many accommodations in the Solomons, Sanbis treads lightly on its surrounds. The property is powered by solar energy; herbs and vegetables are grown in an organic garden. A maximum of 10 guests at any given time means that the place retains a tranquil and exclusive vibe, minus the haughtiness that pervades so many other luxury resort hotels.
The Western Province of the archipelago offers some of the best South Sea diving and snorkelling opportunities you’ll encounter. In the lagoon circling Gizo, willowy angelfish navigate colourful coral and World War II wrecks. The waters around neighbouring Kennedy Island – named after former U.S. President John F. Kennedy, whose wartime ventures had brought him to the region – keep me riveted with vibrant tropical fish and plate coral reminiscent of underwater fireworks.
I take a break from my aquatic adventure to enjoy lunch, a picnic spread laid out on a swathe of sand shaded by giant banyan trees. There’s not another person in sight.
On my final morning, the sea shimmers like a tightly pulled satin sheet. My boat glides towards a cluster of islets that appear weighed down by coconut palms, cantilevered over corals. A glistening grey fin appears; then another; then about a dozen more. Within moments, I’m encircled by a pod of dolphins. They arch, spearing out of the ocean before plunging back in. I join them in the indigo water – several come close enough to touch. And for a moment, I’m almost tempted to grab onto a fin and let it drag me back out into the middle of the archipelago, losing me in yet another limpid lagoon. •
Photographs courtesy of the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau and Melissa Rimac.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
Solomon Airlines flies from Brisbane to Honiara three times a week and has an extensive domestic network. 1300-894-311; flysolomons.com
Virgin Blue flies from Brisbane to Honiara, twice weekly. 136-789; virginblue.com.au
when to go
Weather in the Solomons can be hot and humid. Visit between April and November or July and September to make the most of cooler climes and southeast trade winds.
where to stay
The Honiara Hotel features spacious rooms, including those set in a new hilltop wing. 66-7/21-737; honiarahotel.com.sb
The bungalows at Sanbis Resort are as stylish as they are sustainable. Set on Mbabanga Island, not far from Gizo, the property organises bespoke diving excursions and offers a wide range of other watersports. 677/60-646; sanbisresort.com
On a private island, the Tavanipupu Private Island Resort has just six luxurious bungalows. The restaurant dishes up superb island fare featuring ocean-fresh seafood and organic fruit and vegetables. 677/36-081 or 61-2/9086-2705; tavanipupu.com
further information
For tips and ideas on what to do when you visit, contact the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau. visitsolomons.com.sb
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