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the best of brunei
Published in the October-December 2010 issue.
Overlooking the South China Sea on the north coast of Borneo, Brunei appeals to a diverse crowd with its manicured golf greens, lavish spas and bountiful wilderness reserves. Sarah Jane Evans uncovers 10 highlights from this tiny sovereign state.
get back to nature
A two-hour journey by land and water from Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei’s capital, the remarkable Ulu Temburong National Park covers some 220,000 square kilometres, sprawling across the countryside in Brunei’s easternmost district. This vast tract of virgin rainforest is home to an astounding range of animal and plant species, including the Bornean gibbon and bushy crested hornbill. One of the best ways to experience the park is by boat: canoes and other craft bob down the Sungei Belalong River, which splices the park, taking you through dense primary rainforest where tiger orchids and other epiphytes cling to the branches. Tours into the park generally include a turn on a canopy walkway, strung between the trees some 50 metres above the forest floor.
explore a world
of water
You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d drifted onto a movie set at Kampong Ayer, thought to be the largest water village in Southeast Asia and also one of the oldest, dating back 1,300 years. Close to 40,000 people (roughly 10 percent of the country’s population) live here in houses stilted over the Brunei River. To get an idea of how time has shaped this watery residence, visit the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourist Gallery: the viewing tower affords an aerial perspective of the village, with mosques and jungle-covered hills on the skyline. Water taxis can be hired for around AU$20 per hour and will zip you under bridges and boardwalks linking homes, schools, restaurants and even a hospital.
monkey around
Endemic to Borneo, the proboscis monkey is quite possibly one of nature’s most fascinating creatures. Brunei is something of a safe haven for the species, and morning and afternoon tours along the country’s main waterway generally guarantee a sighting of the large-nosed mammals. The mangroves here are also home to crocodiles, snakes and kingfishers, among a menagerie of other animals. River safaris also pass the largest residential palace in the world: the Istana Nurul Iman, with 1,788 rooms, the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei.
marvel at mosques
Bandar Seri Begawan’s two great mosques are difficult to miss. In the centre of town, the gold-domed Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque attracts thousands of Muslim worshippers on a daily basis. An adjoining lake is home to a replica 16th-century royal barge known as a mahligai, its interior furnished with antiquities from around the globe. Except for Fridays, visitors are welcome to tour the premises outside of prayer times. The capital’s other great architectural attraction is the Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah mosque, a 15-minute drive from Kampong Ayer and widely regarded as one of the grandest monuments to Islam in Southeast Asia. Built to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Sultan’s ascension to the throne, the mosque sits amid landscaped gardens and is particularly pretty at night, when its green roof and gold minarets are illuminated.
step back in time
The Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery is a fascinating repository of Bruneian history, its five mini-galleries dedicated to showcasing the rich heritage of life in Kampong Ayer through photographs and interactive displays, including live craft-making demonstrations. For a more in-depth experience, head to the Royal Brunei Museum. Here, you can peruse a glittering collection of Islamic art that includes many rare manuscripts and Islamic antiquities dating back to the ninth and 10th centuries. For a glimpse of life inside the world’s oldest monarchy, visit the Royal Regalia Museum and be wowed by gold, including an extravagant gilded throne, a coronation chariot and crowns dripping with jewels.
tee off
Brunei is a golfers’ paradise, with five courses including the impressive Empire Hotel & Country Club. Here, the 18-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed course sprawls over 182 hectares of tropical gardens overlooking the South China Sea. Also in the area is the Royal Brunei Golf and Country Club, designed for the Sultan by Ronald Fream. It’s among the top courses in Asia and is certainly the most challenging in Brunei. If you’re travelling overland into Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo, be sure to stop by the Panaga Golf Club, with several ponds and ditches that become inundated by the sea, at high tide.
chill out
After a long day on the golf course, there’s no better way to unwind than at one of Brunei’s top-notch day spas. Among the best is Thann Sanctuary Spa, a branch of the acclaimed Thai spa chain, which offers a range of body and face treatments, and has a shop stocked with natural products. Also well worth visiting for its extensive range of indulgent therapies is The Spa at the Empire Hotel – try The Royal Touch, which includes a facial, a body scrub and a massage – and the Cantik Spa at the newly opened Radisson Hotel. There are two branches of Zen Spa in the capital; both offer well-priced treatments with excellent therapists.
get a taste of the country
Bruneian cuisine is a confluence of neighbouring cultures: Malay and Chinese, with a smattering of Indian. Thanks to its balmy climate, a wide range of tropical fruits can be found across the country. Other staples include rice and fish, both of which are eaten in dishes served from dawn to dusk. Roti flatbread is popular at breakfast and is often fried with eggs and served with dhal. Coconut milk characterises most Bruneian curries and desserts including kelupis: sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, then wrapped in banana leaves.
walk this way
You don’t need to leave the city to experience Brunei’s lush rainforest. Bandar Seri Begawan is home to a number of excellent parks and gardens, including Tasek Lama Recreational Park near the Radisson Hotel (ask the concierge for a map), which offers views over the city and, if you’re lucky, wildlife. Slightly farther afield, Bukit Shabandar Park is large and leafy and has a number of challenging hiking tracks.
dive in
If you’re serious about beach hopping, it’s best to hire a car and explore Brunei’s coast at your leisure. If you only have time to visit one beach, make it Muara: a lovely stretch of sand overlooking the South China Sea on the easternmost point of West Brunei. Beware of jellyfish in the water – to be safe, wear a stinger suit. Though it’s not promoted, there’s also wreck diving here, offered by the Brunei Sub Aqua Dive Club. •
Photography by Sarah Jane Evans and courtesy of Brunei Tourism.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
Royal Brunei Airlines operates direct flights from Perth and Brisbane to the Bruneian capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. 61-3/9334-2623; bruneiair.com
Malaysia Airlines connects Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and other Australian cities with Brunei via Kuala Lumpur. 132-627; malaysiaairlines.com
when to go
With its tropical climate and two monsoon seasons, Brunei can be hot and wet year-round. Visit between June and September to make the most of slightly cooler temperatures.
getting around
Independent travellers will find it easy to explore Brunei but if you prefer to travel with a group, a reputable tour operator is Sunshine Borneo Tours:
exploreborneo.com
where to stay
With a fabulous golf course and a lavish spa, The Empire Hotel & Country Club is one of the country’s largest, most opulent five-star resorts. 67-3/241-8888; theempirehotel.com
Closer to the city centre, the Radisson Hotel is popular for its spacious rooms and suites and Cantik Spa. 67-3/224-4272; radisson.com/brunei
what to do
Tee off at some of the region’s best clubs, including the Royal Brunei Golf and Country Club, 67-3/261-1582, and the Pantai Mentiri Golf Course, 67-3/279-1021.
Soothe weary limbs at Thann Sanctuary. 67-3/223-5599; thannspa.com
Explore Brunei’s marine bounty with the Brunei Sub Aqua Dive Club. 67-3/817-2001; bsadc.com
further information
Brunei is an Islamic state and visitors should dress modestly. Alcohol cannot be purchased inside the country, though international travellers can bring in an allowance for personal consumption. For more information, visit bruneitourism.travel
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