V&T Daily
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manila thriller
Published in the July-September issue.
The Philippines is emerging as South-East Asia’s next hot destination – as Christina Pfeiffer discovered on a recent visit.
It’s a country with more than 7,000 tropical islands, pristine palm-fringed beaches and amazing rice-terraced scenery. It has a fascinating history of Spanish and American occupation; the cuisine is varied and delicious; the people are friendly and speak excellent English; the exchange rate against the Aussie dollar is enormously favourable. Yet this island nation isn’t even on the radar for most Australian travellers. Why not?
Manila makes an immediate impression. From the window of the mini-bus, there’s little chance of mistaking it for any other South-east Asian city: it has a personality of its own. A cross between a World War II-era jeep and a bus, the ubiquitous jeepney provides the city with a distinctive character. Droplets of rain fall on the window of the one we’re travelling in as it roars past Manila Harbour.
Our guide, Helen Aranda, takes us to Intramuros, the oldest part of Manila. It was from this walled section of the city that the Spanish once ruled the country. And as religion played a major role during the Spanish occupation, there are many churches. Our first stop is the Manila Metropolitan Cathedral, its bronze carvings, soaring marble columns and 134 dazzling stained-glass windows a legacy of Spanish rule. The cathedral’s exterior is a work of art in itself, with statues of famous saints in Roman stone.
Our next stop is the UNESCO-World-Heritage-listed San Agustin Church, a visually pleasing architectural interpretation of the baroque style and the work of skilled Chinese and Filipino craftsmen. The remains of Spanish conquistadors are buried here, and the church’s 19th-century chandeliers are quite exquisite. Adjoining the church is the former monastery, now a museum, where we wander among a treasure-trove of historic relics.
The Spanish were not the only ones to enjoy the region’s riches: at Casa Manila, or Manila House, we learn that during the 19th century, the Filipino gentry also enjoyed an opulent lifestyle. This colonial-era museum is set up to resemble the home of a wealthy family and displays the lavish European-influenced lifestyle once led by this fortunate minority. Three storeys are furnished with period antiques.
We visit Fort Santiago, one of the oldest Spanish stone fortresses in the country and the former military headquarters of the Spanish, British, American and Japanese regimes. Now it is a shrine to the country’s national hero, José Rizal. A martyr of the Philippine revolution, Rizal was once imprisoned by the Spanish in this fort. We visit the small, dark cell in which he was held and learn about his part in the revolution.
Shopping malls, like jeepneys, are a legacy of the Americans who governed the Philippines for nearly a third of the 20th century. And shopping, it could be argued, is the next best thing to religion in Manila. Aranda drops me off at the sprawling Greenbelt in upscale Makati, a string of five shopping malls connected by gardens and pathways. On the second floor of Greenbelt 5, I discover that Filipino designers have European flair, creating gorgeous shoes and clothes. The entire floor is filled with designer boutiques, and end-of-season sales are a bargain-hunter’s dream.
Next, I visit Ayala Museum, where the rich history of the Philippines is chronicled in wooden dioramas meticulously hand-carved by Filipino artisans. There is a seven-minute film on how the dictatorship of Ferdinand Marcos was toppled in 1986. And there are works by Philippine artists such as Juan Luna (1857-1899) and Fernando Zobel (1924-1984). The boat gallery showcases miniatures of vessels that contributed to the development of Philippine maritime trade.
Imelda Marcos, widow of former Philippines president Ferdinand Marcos, lives in Makati and holds court regularly at the Peninsula Manila. Though many Filipinos have unhappy tales to tell about the Marcos regime (1966-1986), many say that the former first lady is charming and still well-loved in local social circles.
And indeed, The Peninsula is the place to see and be seen. I look around but can’t spot Imelda, so I head to The Lobby and order the national dessert, halo-halo, a mish-mash of coconut jelly, boiled sweet beans, various fruits and ice.
Filipinos are a party-loving lot and there’s plenty to do in Manila after dark. But you need to be prepared to sing. This is a fun-loving culture in which singing around the family dinner table is the norm. These days, rockeoke, or karaoke on steroids, where you can let loose your inner rock-star and take to the stage with live band back-up, is fast becoming a popular after-dark activity. And Magnet Cafe at Bonifacio Global City is the place to take to the stage.
Also popular and a little more hip is The Establishment, where Manila’s beautiful people congregate, often until the wee hours. Here, Spanish-style tapas and Chocnut Martinis are all the rage. And as they seem to do everywhere in Manila, most people dress to impress. •
Photography by Christina Pfeiffer.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
- Philippine Airlines flies to Manila from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Phone 1300 888 PAL or visit
www.philippineairlines.com
- Qantas flies from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney to Manila. Phone 13 1313 or visit www.qantas.com.au
where to stay
- Makati Shangri-La, Manila is centrally located in the Makati shopping district, within walking distance of some major malls. Phone +632 813 8888 or visit www.shangri-la.com
- The Peninsula Manila is a favourite meeting-place of Manila’s elite. Phone +632 887 2888 or visit www.peninsula.com
further information
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