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city of seduction
Published in the July-September 2010 issue.
Auckland and its surrounding coastland and islands can be very seductive, finds Kris Madden.
When it comes to lifestyle, Aucklanders are a spoiled bunch. In quality-of-life surveys, this city flanked by sparkling harbours ranks among the top five cities in the world. And with an array of natural wonders on its doorstep, cosmopolitan Auckland is about as good as urban living gets.
This isn’t just a city you fly into and out of on your way to somewhere else in New Zealand. Head out in any direction and soon, you will find that it’s more like a whole country in one compact area.
This is ‘walk-land’ – and whatever kind of walking you’re into, you’ll find it here, from city strolling in Auckland’s parks and gardens to the scenic Coast to Coast walkway across the narrowest isthmus in New Zealand. Within an hour of the CBD, you can find yourself tramping through wild native bush; ‘twitching’ in a bird sanctuary or wandering along one of the region’s numerous beaches.
Auckland is known as the ‘City of Sails’ for the large number of yachts that dot Waitemata Harbour and Hauraki Gulf, and because it was here that New Zealand stole the America’s Cup – twice in a row – from the Americans, thereby contributing to the nation’s reputation for producing world-class sailors and boat designers.
You could also nickname it the ‘City of Volcanoes’: indeed, you haven’t really seen Auckland until you’ve checked out its cones. When you’re sprawled out on the grass at the Auckland Domain or Albert Park, remember you’re perched on a volcano. There’s no need to worry as all the four dozen or so volcanoes in the region are extinct, but a trek up the side of least one of them is a must. The most popular are One Tree Hill and Mount Eden.
It’s not just natural beauty that makes Auckland so attractive: one of its most appealing features is that it’s so easy to get around. It feels like a large country town, but one that is alive with sophisticated restaurants, funky fashion boutiques and fascinating Pacific Island culture. You could say Auckland is the ‘big smoke’ in the land of the long white cloud.
A logical place to jump-start your visit is the Sky Tower. No matter where you go in Auckland, you will see the tower on the horizon – which is hardly surprising, as it is the highest building in the southern hemisphere. If you’re not afraid of heights, edge your way around the 192-metre-high SkyWalk but be warned: in that wild way that seems to typify New Zealand, there are no handrails to cling to. And because New Zealand is the home of adrenalin junkies, you can sky-jump off the tower if you’re game. It’s not like bungy-jumping; there’s no bouncing around or hanging upside-down – just a fall straight down to the landing platform.
If you really must bungy jump, you can do it off the Auckland Bridge. You’ll get great 360-degree views over the city – though they will be upside-down. A more sedate way to see the sights is via Auckland Bridge Climb, which takes you under, around, up and over the iconic structure.
Back on terra firma, do some literary legwork at the heritage libraries of the Auckland Museum, housing a vast collection of historic material: photographs, manuscripts and archives, paintings and drawings. The Voyager New Zealand Maritime Museum offers fascinating insights into New Zealand’s maritime heritage, as does Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World, where you’ll see New Zealand’s only sub-Antarctic penguins playing up close in real ice and snow. To complete the super-cool experience, follow this up with a cocktail at the Minus 5 Ice Lounge at Princes Wharf.
To really get under Auckland’s skin, you should spend some time mooching around the rows of Victorian and Edwardian villas in the hip inner-city suburbs of Parnell, Ponsonby and Newmarket. Galleries, antiques and upmarket gift shops dot the sidewalks of Parnell, Auckland’s oldest suburb, along with an abundance of chic fashion stores and stylish restaurants and cafés. Ponsonby Road is known as ‘the cappuccino mile’, and is the place to go for a cup of java and a spot of people-watching. With numerous bars, pubs and dance clubs lining the road, the party typically starts early in the day and lasts well into the following morning.
Quirky K’ Rd, short for Karangahape Road, may be New Zealand’s most famous road: here, high-end fashion outlets sit comfortably alongside retro and vintage clothing stores. Ornate heritage buildings and more than 100 edgy eateries intermingle with legendary bars, eclectic clubs and 24-hour nightclubs.
After a night of partying, the 40-minute ferry-ride from Auckland’s downtown to Waiheke Island is a welcome respite. Car ferries cruise across to the island, and you can drive around it in a couple of hours. An enchanting mix of farmland, forest, beaches, vineyards and olive groves, the island was an isolated farming community until the 1960s and ’70s, when it was ‘discovered’ by artists and alternative lifestylers.
Waiheke produces some of New Zealand’s best red wines thanks to its stony soils and warm, dry microclimate. If you’re short on time or just want a five-star experience, fly over to the island by helicopter and land at one of its vineyards for lunch: Mudbrick, Stonyridge and Cable Bay are all popular heli-tasting options.
Hauraki Gulf formed the backdrop for the defence of the America’s Cup; you can stage your own version on an ex-America’s Cup vessel; or sail to Rakino Island on a privately chartered yacht for a stay at exclusive Hurakia Lodge. You’ll have the island to yourself and a chef at your beck and call.
Hauraki is considered one of the most biologically and geographically diverse marine parks in the world. Whale-watching cruise operators in the Gulf guarantee you a 90 per cent chance of seeing dolphins and a better-than-average chance of encountering whales.
No trip to Auckland would be complete without a ferry trip to Devonport, a beautiful seaside suburb. Its main street is full of cute timber-gabled houses and charming restaurants, cafés and gift shops. At night, the views of Auckland’s glittering skyline are stunning.
Beyond Devonport is Rangitoto Island, where the star attraction is its imposing volcano. There are lava caves to explore and lots of tracks through the island’s centre, including one that takes enthusiastic walkers to the summit in about an hour. For those wanting an easier way to explore the island, there is the Volcanic Explorer, a guided tour on an open carriage.
On Auckland’s wild west coast, you’ll find some of New Zealand’s best surf beaches, backed by pristine native bush, coastal rainforest and hundreds of walking tracks. Tramp through the Waitakere Ranges, an ecological treasure-trove with more than 250 kilometres of trails that take you through magnificent stands of kauri and past waterfalls.
Stretching from Puhoi to Pakiri, the Matakana Coast is dotted with deserted bays and small islands, all within an hour’s drive north of the city. The region is gaining somethjng of a reputation with the ‘slow food’ movement for premium organic produce grown in the fertile volcanic soils.
If you’re keen to explore the underwater world, head to Goat Island, New Zealand’s first marine reserve, for incredible snorkelling or diving – or see much of the same marine life while staying dry on a glass-bottom boat cruise.
To the Maori, Auckland is known as Tamaki-Makau-Rau: ‘the maiden with a hundred lovers’. Those who take the time to explore her multi-faceted personality will no doubt be seduced by her, too. •
Photography by Kris Madden and Tourism New Zealand.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
getting around
- AAT Kings, phone 1300 556 100 or visit www.aatkings.com.au
- Creative Holidays, phone 1300 747 400 or visit www.creativeholidays.com.au
- Driveaway Holidays, phone 1300 723 972 or visit www.driveaway.com.au
- Green Realm, phone +64 9 300 3085 or visit www.greenrealmtravel.com
- Kirra Holidays, phone 1800 007 373 or +64 3 355 0492 or visit www.kirratours.co.nz
- Platinum International Travel, phone 02 9264 4344 or visit www.platinuminternationaltravel.com.au
- Avis, phone 13 63 33 or visit www.avis.com.au
- Australian Pacific Touring, phone 1300 336 932 or visit www.aptouring.com.au
- Evergreen Tours, phone 02 4929 4333 or visit www.evergreentours.com
- Qantas Holidays, phone 1300 HOLIDAY or visit www.qantas.com.au
- Scenic Tours, phone 02 8274 1300 or visit www.scenictours.com
where to stay
further information
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