V&T Daily
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cast adrift in the philippines
Published in the January-March 2011 issue.
More than 7,000 islands comprise the Philippines’ archipelago but for many travellers, there is only one. Jon Underwood made his way to Boracay to check in to the island’s newest luxury resort – and just chill out.
Anticipation builds as the tiny Dornier 328 starts its descent. All 31 passengers on board strain for a glimpse of our final destination through the small windows. And then, suddenly, the plane breaks through the clouds and there it is: a beautiful tropical island fringed with crystal-clear turquoise water and blindingly white, sandy beaches. I can almost picture Herve Villechaize somewhere down below, running out shouting, “The plane, the plane!”
But this is no fantasy island, this is Boracay, where the dress code is barefoot and informal and the drinks are strong and fruity. By day, it’s all seaside massages under coconut palms; by night, it’s one big party and everyone’s invited.
Boracay is about 315 kilometres south of Manila, just off the northwestern tip of Panay Island in the Western Visayas region of the Philippines. It’s only seven kilometres long but is home to some of the best beaches in the world. All manner of watersports are available here, and with more than 350 resorts ranging from budget to five-star, there are plenty of accommodation options as well, not the least of them the stunning Shangri-La.
Opened in 2009, Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort and Spa is the first international five-star hotel on Boracay, sprawling over 12 hectares of hillside jungle towards the northern tip of the island. To describe it as luxurious is like calling a Rolls-Royce “just a car.” This is, quite simply, one of the most beautiful properties you’ll ever have the pleasure of checking in to.
From the moment you arrive at Caticlan Airport (situated on a neighbouring island), you’re treated like a rock star. I am met by hotel staff and whisked in air-conditioned comfort to a private transfer area. Then, while other tourists clamber aboard the local ferry, I’m escorted to the resort’s private speedboat for the 15-minute ride to the Shangri-La. Talk about making an entrance.
Hugging a private cove away from the madding crowds of the island’s White Beach, the resort’s 219 rooms include Tree House Villas, each with a private Jacuzzi and breathtaking views over the sea; or butler-serviced villas with plunge pools, whirlpools and pergolas. Book Villa 13 and you’ll enjoy private access to the beach. Well, to one of them: the resort affords its guests access to two beaches: one private, one shared with the property next door.
On site, there’s also a health club, swimming pool, tennis court, and a dive centre to help you plan your watersports activities. And being a child-friendly resort, it has an entertainment centre and an “adventure zone” – a well-equipped playground with drop slides and an activity corner to keep the kids amused.
Then there’s CHI, The Spa: an escape within an escape. As soon as you walk through its entrance your senses are set tingling with exotic smells, while superbly decorated rooms hint at the indulgent treatments to come. Private rooms are available for couples wanting to share this luxurious experience, while wedding parties often book en masse.
Things are much quieter the day I visit. The spa’s expert therapists begin by working out which “element” I am; a short questionnaire reveals that I am a mixture of metal and water, apparently making me a “morning person” with a preference for sour and spicy foods and a dislike of hot weather. A move to Alaska seems to be on the cards.
Aromatherapy oils are chosen accordingly and I’m handed a long spa menu that lists treatments such as the aptly named Island Paradise, which begins with a cucumber-and-coconut body scrub and ends with a traditional hilot body massage.
An hour or so of pampering puts you in just the right mood for dinner and the Shangri-La offers some exceptional drinking and culinary options. Begin your evening with sundowners at Alon, set just metres from the sand. Sirena offers equally picturesque views from its clifftop perch at the apex of the resort; on the menu, I’m tempted by seafood favourites: spiced, grilled tiger prawns and seared tuna served with a fennel, celery leaf and mustard-seed salad. Another night, I indulge in classic Italian dishes at Rima, an intimate fine-dining restaurant set under the stars.
With so many diversions, it would be easy not to set foot outside the Shangri-La once you’ve checked in. That would be a shame because Boracay has a lot to offer, above and below the water.
More than 20 dive sites are easily accessible from the resort and there’s also world-class snorkelling, sailing, windsurfing, jet skiing… Still, arguably, the best way to explore the area is aboard a paraw outrigger boat.
If you prefer to stay on solid ground, Boracay is also home to an 18-hole championship golf course at the Fairways & Bluewater Resort and Country Club in the island’s centre. Designed by Australia’s Graham Marsh, the par-72 course offers a great challenge for players of all standards.
Opened in 1997, the course fell into disrepair for a few years but is almost back to its best. After a round, make sure you stop for lunch in the restaurant. Fairways’ has just appointed Billy King, the Jamie Durie of the Philippines, to spruce up the menu, and his food is quite sensational. The day I visit, highlights includ ocean-fresh salmon marinated in a dill-mustard dressing followed by a superb peppered-pork tenderloin drizzled with a cognac-pepper sauce.
After lunch, I decide to explore the island, which doesn’t take long at all as it is just 10 square kilometres. It’s easy to get to attractions such as the bat caves, Friday’s Rock (where you can feed tropical fish) and Mount Luho, Boracay’s highest peak.
Once the sun goes down, Boracay has plenty to offer in the way of nightlife. Hop aboard a shuttle bus from the Shangri-La and head to White Beach, the hub of the island’s entertainment offerings. A long alley lined with restaurants, bars and clubs, White Beach is safe, fun and absorbing. I watch fire-dancers twirl and spin at the aptly named Sand Bar, marvelling at their skill, not to mention their courage.
With rumours that Caticlan Airport will undergo expansion or have some pressure taken off its resources by the development of a neighbouring airport, getting to paradise may soon be a breeze. •
Photographs courtesy of the Shangri-La Boracay Resort & Spa and Philippines Tourism.
TRAVEL FACTS
getting there
Philippine Airlines flies direct to Manila from Sydney and Melbourne. 1300-888-725; philippineairlines.com
South East Asian Airlines operates multiple daily connections from Manila, Clark and Cebu to Boracay. flyseair.com
when to go
There’s never a bad time to visit Boracay. The weather is at its best October through December, which means that over that period, the island typically gets overrun with tourists – locals and foreigners alike. June through September is much quieter, and there are hotel bargains to be had at this time as well.
where to stay
With a decadent spa, seven restaurants and bars, and 219 stylish rooms, Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort & Spa is the ultimate tropical hideaway. 63-36/288-4988; shangri-la.com
what to do
If you’re not diving, snorkelling or jet skiing, spend some time on dry land at the Fairways & Bluewater Resort. Golf here costs around AU$120; caddies are compulsory. fairwaysandbluewater.com
further information
Contact Philippines Tourism for travel tips and information. 61-2/9279-3380; philippinetourism.com.au
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