a taste of thailand
By Simon Ostheimer
Endless beaches, superb cuisine, bustling cities, lush jungles... There’s not much that Thailand doesn’t offer as a travel destination. Best of all, there are lots of great deals to be had at the moment. From Phuket to Phi Phi, Koh Samui to Chiang Mai, there’s never been a better time to explore the kingdom.
Thailand is one of those countries that’s like a continent unto itself: from the mist-covered mountains of the north, where elephants roam among colourful hill tribes in jungle surroundings, to the natural beauty of rural Isaan in the northeast; from the buzzing street life of the capital, Bangkok – the city that never sleeps – to the palm-blessed islands in the Gulf of Thailand and along the Andaman Coast; and, finally, to the deep south and its distinct Malay tradition. Thailand has so much to offer that you’ll have to visit time and time again to see it all. Here, we bring you highlights from six sides of Thailand, each of them remarkable.
The Big Mango
Bangkok is to Thailand what London is to the UK: a major metropolis that bears little relation to the rest of the country. Except that in the case of Bangkok – fondly known to its residents as the Big Mango – the difference between the nation’s largest city and its countryside is even starker. The best way to think of Bangkok is as a melting pot of the entire country – an apt analogy, considering that the Thai capital draws millions of job-seeking migrants each year.
Small wonder that the city is also a major draw for most visitors to the kingdom – attracted by famed Buddhist temples Wat Po and Wat Arun (just two of some 400 wats in the city); the gargantuan Chatuchak Weekend Market with its array of bric-a-brac and bargains, the infamous nightlife found along Khao San Road, and the amazing food you’ll find citywide.
For every well-trodden sight listed in the guidebooks, though, there’s an equally appealing hidden attraction: the oft-overlooked cultural enclave of Little India, with its Sikh temple and Thai-Indian residents; the slick restaurants and chic boutiques found along Thonglor Road in the city’s east; the urban cool of Talat Rot Fai – the Railway Market – where retro-adorned hipsters trade second-hand Vespa scooters; the “lost” wilderness of Bang Ka Chao, where you can stay in a treehouse by the river.
Arguably the city’s greatest secret is that Bangkok isn’t its real name: the official name of Thailand’s capital is Krung Thep, or City of Angels.
Travel Facts
Getting There
Thai Airways flies from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth to Bangkok on a daily basis, while Jetstar flies to the Thai capital from a host of cities, including Adelaide, Darwin, Gold Coast and Hobart.
• Jetstar. 131-358; jetstar.com
• Thai Airways. 1300-651-960; thaiairways.com.au
Further Information
For additional tips on travelling to Thailand, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand. 61-2/9247-7549;
tourismthailand.org
The Island Idyll
Thai islands have frequently starred on the big screen, in films such as The Man with the Golden Gun, after which James Bond Island, east of Phuket, is named; The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio; and recent hit release The Hangover Part II.
Needless to say, as the popularity of Thai islands has grown, it’s become increasingly difficult to find a quiet stretch of sand to call your own. There are a few remaining gems, however.
Like dozens of Thai islands before it, Koh Lipe has recently been touted as the kingdom’s last “untouched paradise.” This tiny, boomerang-shaped isle lies like an unpolished jewel in the Andaman Sea, some 60 kilometres west of the port of Pak Barra and just a short boat ride north from the Malaysian resort island of Langkawi. Although it’s within the boundaries of Tarutao National Park, Koh Lipe is not actually protected land, largely due to the presence of chao ley (“sea gypsies”) nomadic ethnic Malay fishermen who were given land rights here decades ago.
Ko Raya – also known as Racha – Noi (small) and Yai (large) are a pair of tiny specks of land some 20 kilometres south of Phuket. The islands are a popular stop-off point for luxury yacht owners sailing down the Andaman coast and Phuket-based sailors making weekend daytrips who moor at the jetty on Raya Yai before coming ashore for lunch.
The waters off Ko Raya have excellent visibility and numerous dive spots lie just offshore, including a wreck in Ter Bay on the east coast of Ko Raya Yai at a depth of around 30 metres. If diving’s not your thing, you might want to try Snuba – an underwater breathing apparatus that combines the ease of snorkelling with scuba gear’s capacity to enable the wearer to reach depths.
The only downside of staying on Ko Raya Yai is the island’s increasing popularity as a daytripper destination.
The comparatively large green isle of Ko Tarutao is popular with nature-lovers looking to get away from it all. The island’s name comes from the Malay word tertua, which translates as “old” or “mysterious” – an apt moniker given that the island’s idyllic appearance conceals a dark secret. For a decade in the mid-20th century, Ko Tarutao was Thailand’s most notorious prison. Following instructions to build a penal colony as far away as possible from Bangkok, government officials made a beeline for this island, just 10 kilometres north of Malaysia. Opened in June 1938, the island prison housed thousands of Thailand’s most hardened criminals, who have since vacated the area, leaving behind blissfully uncrowded beaches, lush jungle and azure waters ideal for snorkelling and diving.
Travel Facts
Getting There
Koh Lipe is a 2-hour boat trip from the town of Pak Barra; it’s also accessible by ferry or speedboat in high season (November to May) from several other destinations including Langkawi (Malaysia), Trang, Ko Phi Phi and Koh Lanta. The island has no pier – upon arrival, you switch to a traditional longtail boat that will take you to your resort.
To get to Ko Raya Yai, catch the speedboat from Chalong pier on Phuket that departs daily at 9 a.m. and takes 30 to 40 minutes. If you’re staying at The Racha or Ban Raya resorts, you may opt for their private, more expensive transfers.
There are regular ferries to Ko Tarutao from Pak Barra on the mainland and Koh Lipe.
Where to Stay
Koh Lipe can be circumnavigated on foot in under an hour, and it takes about 15 minutes to walk between each of the island’s three main beaches: Sunrise, Sunset and Pattaya. The latter is overcrowded, a little sleazy and best avoided, but the other two still have plenty of charm. For a pleasant place to stay, try Castaway Beach Resort on Sunrise Beach.
castaway-resorts.com
The most luxurious resort on Ko Raya Yai is The Racha, a 70-villa property, minimalist in design, with an environmental slant. theracha.com
Because of Ko Tarutao’s status as a protected park, accommodation is limited to either bungalows or tents and can be booked online or at the National Park Office desk at the Thai mainland’s Pak Barra pier. dnp.go.th/index_eng.asp
The Historic Hideaway
On Phuket’s west coast, Patong Beach lures the party crowds with neon-lit bars, cheap alcohol and bustling markets. Away from the tourist strip, the island offers a wealth of non-clichéd attractions – places where the region’s colourful history is not something relegated to the distant, near-forgotten past but is a living, breathing part of the present. Welcome to the island’s capital, Phuket Town, its streets lined with Sino-colonial-style shophouses.
The city’s architecture will seem familiar to travellers who’ve spent time in Penang or Malacca. The link these places share goes beyond their structural similarities: the Chinese immigrants of all three cities have a shared history and are collectively known as the Baba-Nyonya, or Peranakan. Indeed, the children of many wealthy Phuket Chinese were sent to Penang’s capital, George Town, for “British” educations, and even to this day, links remain between their Thai and Malaysian descendants.
While the fortunes of Phuket receded over time as the tin that had fuelled the island’s 18th- and 19th-century mining boom lost its lustre, the splendid buildings remained, though many of them fell slowly into disrepair. In recent years, however, Phuket Town has experienced something of a renaissance, as a short walk around the area proves.
A number of the town’s buildings have starred on the silver screen: the Phuket Government Buildings complex, for instance, substituted for the French Embassy of Cambodia in the Khmer-set 1984 film The Killing Fields, while the nearby Luang Anuphart-Phuket-Karn mansion assumed the role of the Phnom Penh American Embassy in the same movie. The On On Hotel, meanwhile, featured in the opening scenes of Danny Boyle’s 2000 backpacker classic, The Beach. Building on the town’s growing fame, new bars, restaurants, shops and art galleries have started opening in many of its heritage buildings.
Travel Facts
Getting There
Jetstar flies direct from Sydney and Melbourne to Phuket; AirAsia flies direct from Melbourne. airasia.com or jetstar.com
Thai Airways International flies from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane to Bangkok with onward connections to Phuket. 1300-651-960; thaiairways.com.au
Bangkok Airways runs regular flights from the Thai capital to Phuket. 61-2/8248-0050; bangkokair.com
Where to Stay
• Andara Resort & Villas. 66-76/338-777; andaraphuket.com
• The Surin, Phuket. 77-76/621-580; thesurinphuket.com
• Twinpalms, Phuket. 66-76/316-500; twinpalms-phuket.com
• Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa. 66-76/335-600; starwoodhotels.com
The Spiritual Side
A predominantly Buddhist culture, Thailand is home to a number of iconic Buddha monuments including Bangkok’s eye-catching 46-metre-long Reclining Buddha in Wat Po, and The Emerald Buddha in Wat Phra Kaew, thought to have been created in India in 43 B.C.
Towering above them all is the Great Buddha of Thailand, Ang Thong, standing some 92 metres high at the Wat Muang monastery in Ang Thong province, approximately 140 kilometres north of Bangkok. Crafted from cement, painted gold and known in Thai as Phra Buddha Maha Nawamin, it took 18 years to build. As well as its great Buddha, the temple is home to “Hell Park,” a macabre group of statues that graphically depicts the terrible fate of sinners.
Supposedly the oldest Buddhist statue in Thailand, Phra Chao Phanan Choeng was built in 1325, a full quarter-century before the commencement of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya (the foundation of modern Thailand). The statue is surrounded by hundreds of smaller Buddha statues that represent the numerous donations to the temple; if you give enough, you too can have your place on the wall.
With significant Sino-influenced architecture, Phanan Choeng is especially popular with the area’s long-established Thai-Chinese community, who know it as Sam Po Kong. The famous Chinese explorer Zheng He, of New World discovery fame, is alleged to have visited in 1407.
Probably the most unusual temple in this deeply religious land is the Erawan Museum in Samut Prakan province, south of Bangkok. On a busy stretch of road on the outskirts of the Thai capital stands this 29-metre-high statue of the giant three-headed elephant known as Erawan, or Airavata, the mythological animal that carries the Hindu god Indra. Built over 10 years by businessman Lek Viriyaphant, the bronze statue sits atop a three-storey museum housing his priceless collection of Thai art and antiques. Evidence of the influence of Hinduism on Thai Buddhism, the statue has become a place of worship for Thais seeking Erawan’s blessings.
Travel Facts
Further Information
For details on the temples detailed above, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand. tourismthailand.org
The Erawan Museum’s website has a useful map as well as background information about the complex.
erawan-museum.com
The Green Movement
It ain’t easy being green, but for Anchalika Kijkanakorn – founder of Akaryn Hospitality, which owns and operates hotels across Thailand including Aleenta Hua Hin-Pranburi – organics took hold at an early age. “I was brought up in a family that loves food – not just for its taste but also for what it does to keep you strong and healthy,” she explains. Kijkanakorn’s upbringing shines through in her hotel offerings, which feature eco-friendly designs and host events focused on preserving the local environment and culture.
In the far southwest of the country, approximately two hours’ drive north of Phuket and surrounded by the stunning karst mountains of Khao Sok National Park, another hotel venture is banking on increased demand for “green” tourism in Thailand. Recently opened, the Thanyamundra Organic Resort houses guests in seven suites and two rooms, split across two Thai-style villas at the edge of ancient rainforest and is part of Thanyapura, a health-orientated, Phuket-based company.
According to its CEO Nick Seaver, the initial plan was to develop a farm that could supply wholesome food for the company’s Phuket sites: several hotels, a top-of-the-range sports and leisure club, and the Thanyapura Mind Centre for yoga and meditation retreats. But the demand for a luxe retreat that combines sustainability and style was there and Thanyamundra has barely had a vacancy since it opened.
At the opposite end of the accommodation spectrum is the small, earthy YouSabai guesthouse, part of the Pun Pun Center for Self-Reliance, about 50 kilometres from Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. Here, rather than airport transfers via limousine, guests typically arrive by pick-up truck, squeezed between sacks of food being delivered to village markets.
Pun Pun was started eight years ago by Jon Jandai and Peggy Reents, an eco-conscious couple who wanted to create an organic farm on chemically contaminated soil that had been covered, once, by fruit plantations. Guesthouse manager Kritsada Niemjan arrived two years later to develop the lodgings. “I saw that knowing how to eat local indigenous products makes people think about where food comes from,” says Niemjan. “Today, I specialise in Thai cooking programs that use locally sourced food and focus on food as medicine and for health.”
Travel Facts
Getting There
There are direct flights from all major Australian cities to Bangkok. From here, Aleenta Hua Hin-Pranburi can arrange car transfers, or catch a Bangkok Airways flight to Chiang Mai to reach the YouSabai. bangkokair.com. For Thanyamundra, fly to Phuket, then arrange transfers via private car through the hotel.
Where to Stay
• Aleenta Hua Hin-Pranburi Resort & Spa. aleenta.com/huahin
• Thanyamundra Organic Resort. thanyamundra.com
• YouSabai. yousabai.com
The Party Scene
Although it’s Thailand’s third-largest island after Phuket and Koh Chang, Koh Samui is relatively undeveloped, with virtually no high-rise buildings and a predominance of coconut palms – which used to provide the islanders’ main income until upscale tourism overtook it in the 1980s. Up until then, Samui hosted adventurous backpackers who arrived on fishing boats from the mainland, some 35 kilometres to the southwest. These days, most travellers land at the deceptively grand-sounding Samui International Airport.
As well as some of Thailand’s most exclusive resorts (the Four Seasons’ lobby has to be seen to be believed), Samui is home to a mix of budget and mid-range accommodations. Some of the best of the latter can be found around Bophut and the Fisherman’s Village, a traditional Thai-Chinese settlement that features plenty of laidback places to watch the sun set with a drink or meal, minus the madding crowds and ubiquitous bars found on other parts of the island.
The official capital of Koh Samui, Nathon is also the island’s only town. Because it’s the largest settlement, this is where you’ll also find all the main government buildings – police, immigration and post office – though we hope you won’t be here to visit any of them. Instead, Nathon offers visitors the closest slice of local life you’ll find on the island, its wooden shophouses home to restaurants, cafés and bookshops. Nathon’s ferry pier is the gateway to the notorious Full Moon parties held on Koh Pha Ngan’s Haad Rin beach, which attract thousands of revellers.
Travel Facts
Getting There
Bangkok Airways runs direct daily flights between Bangkok and Koh Samui. bangkokair.com
Where to Stay
• Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui. 66-77/243-000; fourseasons.com
• Le Meridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa. 66-77/960-888; starwoodhotels
• Melati Beach Resort & Spa. 66-77/913-400; melatiresort.com
• New Star Beach Resort, Koh Samui. 66-77/414-500; newstarresort.com
• Shasa Resort & Residences, Koh Samui. 66-77/913-888; shasahotels.com
Further Information
For details on Koh Pha Ngan’s Full Moon Party dates, go to fullmoon.phangan.info
Sweet dreams
The Thai isles of Samui and Phuket have long attracted travellers with their indulgent resort offerings. Here, we uncover some of the islands’ brightest – and newest – places to bed down.
KOH SAMUI
Melati Beach Resort & Spa
Melati Beach Resort & Spa is situated on the northernmost tip of Koh Samui, on a quiet beach at Thongson Bay. Although it’s conveniently located close to the airport and Chaweng Beach shopping and entertainment area, Melati is secluded and private and offers the chance to lose yourself in total luxury.
Architecturally inspired by traditional southern Thai villages, Melati is set amid verdant tropical gardens, replete with a waterfall.
The resort offers 77 Villas and Suites with both indoor and outdoor areas, the smallest accommodations weighing in at 77 square metres. The vast majority of rooms also come with a private swimming pool.
With numerous top-quality restaurants on location, there are plenty of places to refuel, whether you desire a hearty breakfast or a romantic dinner by candlelight beside the beach, watching the turquoise waves lap gently on the sand. You won’t want to miss a meal at signature restaurant Kan Sak Thong, where chefs serve authentic Thai cuisine in a lavish dining room.
If you’re feeling inspired, try your hand at making your own meal at one of the resort’s cooking classes, or simply bliss out at the serene spa, offering an extensive range of body and beauty treatments.
How to Book
9/99 Moo 5, Bophut, Thongson Bay, Koh Samui; 66-77/913-400; melatiresort.com
New Star Beach Resort, Koh Samui
New Star Beach Resort, located on Chaweng Noi Beach, is ideal for those who want to be close enough to Chaweng to explore the shops and entertainment, yet still desire a relaxing retreat away from the hustle and bustle of city life.
The resort has a range of accommodation styles including Beachfront Villas, Ocean View Villas, Suite Villas, Palm Rooms and Cottages. All accommodations are smart and modern, with vibrant art and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the ocean. Polished wood, designer lamps and candles, and the subtle scent of flowers create a homely, yet stylish, atmosphere.
If you’d like a little adventure after relaxing in your room, cooling off in the pool or being pampered at the Akiira Spa, the resort offers guided tours of the surrounding jungle as well as exhilarating elephant treks. And if you work up an appetite, there are a range of restaurants and bars available so you’ll never be short of somewhere to indulge.
How to Book
83 Moo 3 Bophut, Chaweng Noi Beach, Koh Samui; 66-77/414-500; newstarresort.com
Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa
The freshly minted Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa, located on Lamai Beach, provides guests with ample opportunities for both an indulgent and active holiday. The Spa utilises age-old rituals and modern techniques to provide total peace and relaxation, while the fitness centre, beachside and ocean swimming pools and watersports activities will ensure there is plenty of excitement too.
From Veranda Suites to Ocean Front Pool Villas, all styles of accommodation are private, spacious and feature Thai and Chinese furnishings.
As for dining, the restaurant Latest Recipe offers casual meals around the clock, with tables overlooking the ocean. Plunge bar sits poolside and is the ideal place to enjoy a cool beverage. The resort’s eye-catching 224-metre “floating dock” hovers over the Gulf of Thailand and is a great place for parties and receptions – or just a drink at sunset.
How to book
146/24 Moo 4, Lamai Beach, Maret, Surat Thani, Koh Samui; 66-77/960-888; starwoodhotels.com
ShaSa Resort & Residences
Tiered down a hill on beautiful Laem Set Beach and overlooking the Gulf of Thailand is the exclusive, five-star ShaSa Resort & Residences, the perfect place to flee for a romantic getaway or to spend some quality time with the family.
With a private beachfront villa and 32 luxurious suites, all featuring balconies overlooking the ocean, ShaSa is sure to provide an inspiring getaway. Enjoy the lush landscaped gardens, the hydrotherapy pool, indulgent spa treatments and fine dining experiences.
The Resort’s Beyond the Sea restaurant is the place to please your taste buds. Traditional Thai food is given a fresh and modern twist with tapas dishes and an á la carte menu, complemented by fine wines and cocktails. If it’s something sweet you’re after, dessert designed exclusively for ShaSa by After You, the famous bakery in Bangkok, will tantalise your tastebuds.
ShaSa also offers parents with children the opportunity to have some time alone, with a fun Kid’s Club and babysitting services.
How to Book
116/1 Moo 2 Tambon Mared, Laem Set, Koh Samui; 66-77/913-888; shasahotels.com
PHUKET
The Surin, Phuket
Set amid tropical gardens and coconut groves, The Surin, Phuket offers superb thatched-roof cottages on Pansea Beach – a long stretch of white sand leading to an azure lagoon. All accommodations come with separate dressing areas and an outdoor sun deck, while the Suites have added niceties such as Bose sound docks and iPods.
The Surin is a golf-lovers’ heaven, with five courses within 30 minutes’ drive of the resort, including The Blue Canyon Country Club, ranked among the very best in Asia. Worked up an appetite on the green? The dining options at The Surin range from fine Thai fare to casual meals beside the beach.
Immerse yourself in Thai culture by taking part in cooking classes or listening to live, classical music while dining at the Lomtalay Thai Restaurant, where you’ll enjoy a view of the Andaman Sea. Experience the underwater world of Thailand by snorkelling or diving just off shore, or explore the dramatic karst islands dotting nearby Phang-Nga Bay – a World Heritage Site – on a luxury yacht.
How to book
Pansea Beach, 118 Moo 3, Choengtalay, Talang, Phuket;
66-76/621-580; thesurinphuket.com
Twinpalms, Phuket
Martin Palleros, one of the top landscape architects in the Asia-Pacific region, was called upon to design Twinpalms, Phuket, crafting a resort that is at once contemporary and yet in harmony with nature. The result is an eco-conscious retreat that blends fresh architectural lines and chic minimalist design with the beauty of the surrounding environment.
You’ll feel like a VIP when you check in to Twinpalms, located on Phuket’s west coast, 175 metres from Surin beach in a stylish area commonly referred to as “millionaires’ row.”
The resort features lavish penthouses and 97 spacious suites set amongst palm trees, each with a private terrace with a pool and tropical garden views. Book the Duplex Penthouse and you’ll be pampered with niceties such as Frette towels, a cellar of fine wine, a Cuban cigar humidor and the latest audiovisual facilities.
If you can tear yourself away from your room, diversions include a beach club, spa, library and two restaurants offering Thai and international favourites. Don’t miss an afternoon at sea with Twinpalms’ Andaman Cruises, Phuket’s most sophisticated yacht charter.
How to Book
06/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Rd., Cherng Talay, Phuket;
66-76/316-500; twinpalms-phuket.com
Andara Resort & Villas
On Phuket’s west coast, above Kamala Beach, lies Andara Resort & Villas. This five-star heaven is the epitome of luxury, with water a main focus – most suites and villas come with private infinity pools; there’s a shared, 40-metre resort pool; and the warm waters of Kamala Beach are just a short walk away. When you’re not in the water, you’ll be admiring it from your spacious, thoughtfully designed accommodation.
Regardless of whether you book a Pool Villa or Residence Suite, you’ll be guaranteed lavish ensuite facilities, including indoor and outdoor showers and bathtubs as well as living and dining areas fitted with modern appliances and designed with a distinct Thai flourish.
The Silk Restaurant and Bar is Andara’s Thai cuisine corner, serving traditional dishes using the freshest ingredients. If you’d like to venture a little farther, the resort is close to a wide range of restaurants as well as boutique shops and golf courses. Otherwise, unwind and relax in the spa or keep fit in the state-of-the-art gym.
How to book
5 Moo 6, Kamala Beach, Kathu, Phuket; 66-76/338-777; andaraphuket.com
Laguna Phuket
Seven hotels and villa properties; countless restaurants and bars; endless watersports activities; one common goal: to create the holiday of a lifetime in Thailand.
Launched in 1987 as the first “integrated resort” in Asia, Laguna Phuket occupies 400 hectares of landscaped tropical grounds, incorporating several lagoons and fronting the eight-kilometre-long white-sand beach of Bangtao Bay.
The Banyan Tree Phuket features a range of elegant Thai-inspired villas; the brand new Angsana Laguna Phuket offers everything from stylish rooms to two-bedroom loft lodgings and sprawling suites; the Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket offers 226 guest rooms with private balconies; the Laguna Beach Resort features award-winning accommodation and dining; Outrigger Laguna Phuket Resort & Villas is made up of two-, three- and four-bedroom Thai-inspired villas; the Best Western Allamanda Laguna Phuket is an upscale suite hotel providing the cosiness of home and the fun of a resort; and the new Laguna Holiday Club Resort comes with 79 spacious suites, all featuring separate living and dining areas, convenient kitchens and luxurious furnishings.
Facilities and activities include spas, boutique shopping, luxury tours, canoeing, sailing, resort golf and, of course, the pristine beaches and azure waters of the Andaman Sea.
How to book
66-76/362-300; lagunaphuket.com
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